I think this is a new one. Two separate prints of different shapes and both partially failed due to parts or supports being blown off the stock textured PEI plate. I had cleaned it with Dawn dish soap (thank the gods to whoever recommended that!) and a surgeons scrub brush. the plastic ones with zillions of little sharp scrubby bits. That fixed all my ABS adhesion issues but in all my 12 years of printing on numerous printers I have never had parts yeeted off the bed by wind, it was always the enemy. CR Hyper PLA with stock settings for cooling. The time-lapse shows as the right side internal fan duct âseesâ the parts the carnage starts.
So there are many issues. Starting with terminology. CR calls the K2 Plus fans so many names it is near impossible to figure out which one is which. We have Part fan, Aux part fan, back fan, exhaust fan, model fan and side fan. That is between CR print, the app and the printer screen, I may have missed a few too.
I think the model fan is the part fan, the Back fan is the exhaust fan and the aux part fan is the side fan?? Some consistency is long overdue. At this point if they all revert to a single Chinese name for each I could at least determine who is who and it would help my Cantonese some. After video proof I edited the default filament setting for cooling on the CR Hyper PLA. Part fan was 100%, now 30%. Aux part was 80% (hurricane) now 0%. Exhaust was 60% during 80% complete now 40% 40%. Fan was set to always on, not now. One hour into the test print, I am past the side duct with no spider stringing or part yeeting. Let me know if there are better ways to fix this or if I am missing something obvious. Is there any way to edit the system presets for filament?
use Glue Sticks.
i had same prob, but when u started using glue sticks, no more problems with falling off build plate.
even with bed heat off !!
i like the Creality brand glue sticks.
some ppl use plain of Elmers school glue sticks cuz its cheap.
what bed temp ?
for PLA i usually do 60
for PETG i usually do 75
i also have an enclosure, with a fan mounted on a switch, to even out the box temp.
and i usually run 30% fan all the time.
but for parts that are holding a lot of heat, i run 60% fan speed.
I tried the Creality glue stick provided with the printer on the stock textured PEI plate and it was an absolute disaster, worse than a clean plate for ABS, it stuck to the nozzle every single attempt. Had to scrub the PEI plate off with Dawn and the surgeons scrub brush to be able to use the plate again. I had everything stock on the K2 Plus with Creality Hyper PLA. It sets bed at 50 C and fans are at hurricane force (80%) which on multiple attempts of two different plates either blew the support off the plate or objects being printed off the plate! I have brought fans speeds up a bit since the start of the current print to get surface finish better. Side fan or Aux part fan on the K2 up to 15% which still feels high. Model at 30% up to 100 for overhangs and case/exhaust at 33%. Heat still tends to build in the K2 so top is angled up and the door is open a bit with temps inside ranging between 23 and 27 C.
On one of my printers I retrofitted an enclosure, exhaust fan and hair dryer. I connected them to an STC 1000 PID controller (under $10 on AliExpress) for heating and cooling so I could set and forget the chamber temperature. Used hairdryer and an old PC fan all in was under $30.
With the settings I have now for the K2 Plus I am looking to try closing it back up and see if it runs cool enough with just the exhaust running. Closed is better for keeping it quiet. Per your note I will try the bed at 60 C also. Thank you for getting back to me.
Ok, I did not need any glue stick for stock plate printing >800 hours so far!
Just cleaned bed (I use IPA or window cleaner) and right Z-Offset!
I also have raised the top cover + CFS by ~2cm and print PLA & PETG with (also +2cm) open door without exhaust or side fans. The side fans I use only for extreme overhang parts.
In fluidd the side fan is fan2 and you can switch it off withSET_PIN PIN=fan2 VALUE=0 or on with SET_PIN PIN=fan2 VALUE=255 .
You may call them on different layers of the print when you slice it in CP6 as well.
If you are using (especially) older versions of CP6 to slice and use default tree support there are/were a lot of bugs or bad settings which created always âadaptive layer height supportâ which made all support very fragile. In worst case youse not âdefaultâ but âOrganicâ tree support settings.
Please update to latest version 6.0.5.+
That is interesting. This printer is less than a week out of the box, Latest CP6 with all cals run. I had printed PLA, ABS, PETG prior with no issues but minimal supports needed if any. I have done nothing to change the Z offset though. My other 4 printers are old bed slingers (one is 12) and are quite particular about what they will tolerate. I was hoping I would be able to rely on auto bed leveling on the K2⌠My first issue was ABS adhesion in the middle of a production run. 99% IPA, no good, Acetone, no good, Creality gluestick, worse. Dawn dishwashing scrub, perfect (I will have to try windex next time). Then I went back to CR Hyper PLA white. It blew any organic supports off the bed on the right side of the build plate (plate is undamaged and pristine). Any supports out of the âwindâ were fine. Side fan setting from the default CR Hyper PLA was at 80%. Knocked that down to 15% and no issues now. Was cracking the door and tilting the lid as you do or more. I printed a full low clearance full vent kit to connect to an HRV to get rid of ABS, sound and anything else so I am now trying case closed with side fan at 15%, Exhaust at 100% and model fan does what it wants. I have not delved in depth into Fluidd as yet, like the degree of access and ability to tweak settings, Thank you for the commands for the side fan, excellent information all around.
im using a E3 Max Neo, and i mostly use Cura to print with.
i dont need to use glue on a PEI textured plate.
i only use glue stick for the PEO smooth rainbow diamond plate.
if you dont set your nozzle height and nozzle temp correctly, nothing will ever stick.
the Paper trick works ok.
i like using actual Feeler Gauge to set my nozzle height so i know what it actually is,
rather than guess and adjust.
you could also try changing your INITIAL LAYER thickness. mine is 0.1mm and my Width is 0.3mm with a 0.4mm nozzle.
did you set your Bed Mesh ?
is it applying the bed mesh before it starts printing??
i like using my Sonic Pad to config my mesh.
i can run 100 point check, or just 16 in im being lazy. lol
but i like Cura slicer bcuz i cant tell it to send the mesh when it sends the gcode.
dont habe to do that Pre/Post crap anymore.
just hit the check box and done.
The K2 does the mesh, height flow and who knows what else prior to all prints unless that function is deselected. Probably around 16 points. After stopping the side fans until layer 4 and then only running them at 15% max, no more issues. The odd thing is how high Creality print 6 automatically sets the side fans when CR Hyper PLA is loaded into the CFS or side spool and printed. During printing, as the bed dropped and objects encountered the hurricane, YEET. I was relying on all the automation and getting really lazy compared to what I have to do for my other printers (Airwolf and Wanhaos). As the K2 continues to succeed I will run fewer pre print calibration processes to speed up things. 0.4 nozzle here too. Good call and I did think of dropping and widening from the 0.2 x 0.2 stock but first layer is near perfect with no elephants foot and as it is now adhering well with the fans not blowing stuff off the stock textured plate, so far so excellent.
yeah, i didnt think about that partâŚ
when i start a print, with TPU, PLA or PETG (i havent used ABS,PC, or much CF), i always start the first 4 layers with 0% Fan. and then 5% thru Layer 10-15, then 30-60% from there out.
you can also try HOTTER initial layer.
i mostly use Cura, and you can tell it to run dif temp for the first two layers.
when i have issues with adhession, i turn up the nozzle and bed temp 5-10°
i mostly use Elegoo Rapid PLA/PETG, so i dont really have âfall offâ issues.
but when i was first getting into 3D printing, i had so many problems with PLA, but NONE with PETG.
so for 6mo thats all i used. then i figured out that Elegoo Rapid is so much easier to work with than 80% of all other brands.
Elegoo Rapid PLA will print from 190-220 --No Issue.
but i usually run 205°
but when i print something with a lot of small holes on the plate, i start off at 65° Bed, and 210° Nozzle.
but then after 2-4 layers i will back down to 55° / 205°.
but i dont usually use my PEI side much anymore.
i like the smooth PEO pattern side more.
i have never even used my Glass plate.
its still N.I.B. for the past 3yrs lol.
i like my flex plates too much lmao
Most stuff sticking well with the 15% but I just printed four, 12 bladed fan jobbies. That is 48 blades on four fans. Flat too, only ~1/2" or a cm high. One blade only on each of the fans near the damn side duct curled up enough to mess it up. Good adhesion on everything else. I left it printing before I saw your reply, lol. I have just set the max side fan to 5% after layer 4 (zero before that). I find it really odd that the default settings from Creality for their filament in their printer has the side fans at 80%. Wish there was a way to edit the default filament setting because if I forget to apply my edited user settings, it is hurricane time!
2 weeks of mainly printing PLA with the K2 with no problems. Then small detachments then bigger ones until what you see in the photo
Tried Cleaning plate with window cleaner and IPA but still detaching so I went back to glue. I use the <$2 BIC glue stick. No troubles after that.
That is epic. Hope there was no permanent damage. The fan blades I am printing here suffered another minor nozzle stick, fold and partial tear off. Seems I got lazy and had not washed the build plate with Dawn in the last couple of days. 99% IPA or acetone was useless in the past. Under better light, great big fingerprints. At least I can trace the guilty party down. Quick wash, scrub, dry and the next 3 printed perfectly, now doing a plate of 5. I print a lot of ABS and the glue stick was like oiling the plate, sort of like what I have done recently with my fingerprints⌠I need a build plate of whatever the finish on the nozzle is. It sticks to EVERYTHING!
Hello Cannonman,
I have seen others mention the BIQU CyroGrip plate on this site a number of times and the reports have been good.
You will need to check if there is one for your printer model but I imagine there would be.
Cheers.
As Jack Sparrow says, âI am in the marketâ (for a build plate, I have too many boats). Many thanks for the suggestion R_D. BIQU does have the CryoGrip for the K1 but not the K2. I have reached out to them re plans for any K2 offering and will post any reply here. In the meantime, any other suggestions for sourcing good K2 compatible build plates smooth and patterned?
Re: permanent damage of giant blob.
Fortunately no permanent damage. It took me about 2.5 hours to remove that PLA blob. I posted how I recovered from it here Massive blob
Saw the recovery info, what a tedious process.
On build plate news, Gloria at BIQU got back to me while one large PLA part on a full plate was curling off my stock textured PEI bed. Less than I had on my old Airwolf with ABS but it ground the nozzle into a large area of the print and threw a CM2784. Extruder extrusion anomaly, possible clog or blockage, motor released. Fortunately not an inkling of a blob. resumed and it completed but had some thinning in that area. I am dreading having to adjust z axis stuff but it seems it will be inevitable. Probably start with a thinner wider first layerâŚ
Response from BIQU marketing, as sent, follows:
Thank you so much for your sugesstion, I will forward it to our product manager;)
Best Regards
Gloria
Hopefully we will see some CryoGrip plates soon.