On the K2 Plus, is it to be expected that you have to manually set your Z-offset on a printer that is supposed to do everything automatically? Not to mention a +.2mm manual adjustment and STILL getting too much squish?
Seriously, I would think the auto everything would compensate like it does for other printers out there, no?
It that too much to ask? I guess with this printer it is.
@PBusardo Curious, I have never needed or felt the need to manually set the z-offset. Auto adjust seems to work fine on my K2+. I have adjusted the overall build plate level so the auto-config is working in the middle of it’s range. It wasn’t necessary, but it seemed like the right thing to do.
since changing the z-offset did not fix the issue, it sounds like the auto adjust is working fine and a different setting is causing too much squish. Is it first layer or every layer?
It’s not just a setting - it’s some machines. I’ve battled PETG for nearly a year - this machine hates it, but will print PLA and even ABS with far less trouble. I’m at the point where too many hours have been wasted investigating it.
Agreed. Quite frustrating.
I have begged Creality to put me out of my misery and replace my machine with a RELIABLE, WORKING printer with zero luck.
I have to set the Z offset higher by 0.05mm for PETG then reset it lower for PLA. I have no trouble printing either with these settings on my K1c.
Thanks gozmon.
Changing the Z-Offset does fix the issue. But I’m finding that I have to adjust it sometimes more than +.2mm to prevent all squish. That seems like a pretty heavy handed adjustment to me.
What I’m having a hard time believing is that this needs to be done at all. I thought calibration and all of the auto-adjustment features of the machine should be able to take care of this, much like other machines are able to.
Am I expected to figure out, manually, the Z-Offset every time I change a build plate, or use a different filament, or change nozzles, etc? Come on.
Why does it need manual Z-Offset adjustment AT ALL with all of the auto-features?
I’ve never had to manually adjust the Z-Offset on any of my Bambu machines, or even my Ankermake M5!
To me, this is a firmware issue, or an issue with my printer.
I agree, z-offset should not be necessary as long all of the build plate bed mesh variance fits inside the auto adjust range. 0.2mm does seem like a lot to adjust. What does your bed mesh look like in Fluid?
Because it depends of the filament and the bed. It isn’t the same PLA than PA12 or PCTG, a resin bed or a rugged PEI.
So there is 2 values. One is the reference from 0 that uses the printer. You must do in Fluids, home X-Y and Z and then, in the console, write PROBE_TEST. It will show a screen with bottoms to adjust it. If you touch out it wil close but refreshing the windows appears again. Use a paper sheet or a 0.10 metal gauge. When finished made a SAVE_CONFIG and restart.
Another question is when you change type of filament or the bed. There are macros to change automatically the value depending the selection. Or do it manually.
To do everything adjust automatically you need to program your macros, or if you want to use a cold bed without turn on it (by defect the system doesn’t allow it), or adjust the leveling screws under the bed or…
I still need to do the mesh with Fluid, but I also can’t have this printer down AT ALL right now as it’s keeping up with orders. So I will get to that once I get a window OR the Anycubic S1 Max shows up. Thanks Goz.
Thanks Lombar. I do a full calibration every time I change the bed.
Having a hard time believing I need to do all of what you said without having to adjust the Z-Offset manually over +.2mm !! on simple PLA prints.
Why is it that my Bambu’s can do this without issue no matter which bed or filament I use?
Isn’t it the purpose of all these new printers with automatic calibration, bed leveling, and auto Z-offset adjustment to prevent manual settings.
I’ve had my time with sliding paper, metal gauges and dicking with machines to get good prints and to be honest, I’M DONE! And I’m going to stay in a line where I can use my printers as tools and production machines and not tinker toys.
So sorry you got a lemon. One thing I’ve noticed on this forum is the manufacturing and QC at Creality is inconsistent. Some people get great machines others not so much. And you are right, that means it is not a production quality machine. Production grade systems are more consistent and have stronger support. In all fairness, if you get a good one, they’re not tinker toys ether.