On the K2 Plus, is it to be expected that you have to manually set your Z-offset on a printer that is supposed to do everything automatically? Not to mention a +.2mm manual adjustment and STILL getting too much squish?
Seriously, I would think the auto everything would compensate like it does for other printers out there, no?
It that too much to ask? I guess with this printer it is.
@PBusardo Curious, I have never needed or felt the need to manually set the z-offset. Auto adjust seems to work fine on my K2+. I have adjusted the overall build plate level so the auto-config is working in the middle of it’s range. It wasn’t necessary, but it seemed like the right thing to do.
since changing the z-offset did not fix the issue, it sounds like the auto adjust is working fine and a different setting is causing too much squish. Is it first layer or every layer?
It’s not just a setting - it’s some machines. I’ve battled PETG for nearly a year - this machine hates it, but will print PLA and even ABS with far less trouble. I’m at the point where too many hours have been wasted investigating it.
Agreed. Quite frustrating.
I have begged Creality to put me out of my misery and replace my machine with a RELIABLE, WORKING printer with zero luck.
I have to set the Z offset higher by 0.05mm for PETG then reset it lower for PLA. I have no trouble printing either with these settings on my K1c.
Thanks gozmon.
Changing the Z-Offset does fix the issue. But I’m finding that I have to adjust it sometimes more than +.2mm to prevent all squish. That seems like a pretty heavy handed adjustment to me.
What I’m having a hard time believing is that this needs to be done at all. I thought calibration and all of the auto-adjustment features of the machine should be able to take care of this, much like other machines are able to.
Am I expected to figure out, manually, the Z-Offset every time I change a build plate, or use a different filament, or change nozzles, etc? Come on.
Why does it need manual Z-Offset adjustment AT ALL with all of the auto-features?
I’ve never had to manually adjust the Z-Offset on any of my Bambu machines, or even my Ankermake M5!
To me, this is a firmware issue, or an issue with my printer.
I agree, z-offset should not be necessary as long all of the build plate bed mesh variance fits inside the auto adjust range. 0.2mm does seem like a lot to adjust. What does your bed mesh look like in Fluid?
Because it depends of the filament and the bed. It isn’t the same PLA than PA12 or PCTG, a resin bed or a rugged PEI.
So there is 2 values. One is the reference from 0 that uses the printer. You must do in Fluids, home X-Y and Z and then, in the console, write PROBE_TEST. It will show a screen with bottoms to adjust it. If you touch out it wil close but refreshing the windows appears again. Use a paper sheet or a 0.10 metal gauge. When finished made a SAVE_CONFIG and restart.
Another question is when you change type of filament or the bed. There are macros to change automatically the value depending the selection. Or do it manually.
To do everything adjust automatically you need to program your macros, or if you want to use a cold bed without turn on it (by defect the system doesn’t allow it), or adjust the leveling screws under the bed or…
I still need to do the mesh with Fluid, but I also can’t have this printer down AT ALL right now as it’s keeping up with orders. So I will get to that once I get a window OR the Anycubic S1 Max shows up. Thanks Goz.
Thanks Lombar. I do a full calibration every time I change the bed.
Having a hard time believing I need to do all of what you said without having to adjust the Z-Offset manually over +.2mm !! on simple PLA prints.
Why is it that my Bambu’s can do this without issue no matter which bed or filament I use?
Isn’t it the purpose of all these new printers with automatic calibration, bed leveling, and auto Z-offset adjustment to prevent manual settings.
I’ve had my time with sliding paper, metal gauges and dicking with machines to get good prints and to be honest, I’M DONE! And I’m going to stay in a line where I can use my printers as tools and production machines and not tinker toys.
So sorry you got a lemon. One thing I’ve noticed on this forum is the manufacturing and QC at Creality is inconsistent. Some people get great machines others not so much. And you are right, that means it is not a production quality machine. Production grade systems are more consistent and have stronger support. In all fairness, if you get a good one, they’re not tinker toys ether.
sorry to ask a dumb question, but have you checked the screws on the hotend and nozzle for play \ loose. my k2 printed fine and then i also had to adjust the z offset, only to find that the nozzle was loose and the small two screws that hold the heater part to the heatsink, once i tightened up these , redid my calibration, the printer is 110% again
Thanks Ondrej. No question is dumb. Yes, that was one of the first things I’ve checked.
I’m still having to manually adjust the Z-Offset based on my print. Luckily there is only one main print I do, and I have it pretty well dialed in at this point.
The frustrating part is that I SHOULD NOT HAVE TO DO THAT. Everything should be automatic.
I’m in the same boat as you. My boss wanted to use this printer, so I explained how to add a skirt and showed him where to adjust the bed height during the skirt print. He calls me over shortly thereafter - the Z controls on the little touchscreen are BACKWARDS - he was hitting the up arrow, thinking it would raise the nozzle, but instead it raised the bed… 0.2mm into the nozzle, damaging the build plate.
It just sits…
My K2 plus using all types of PETG or PLA never an issue. My z-axis automatic works perfectly. Maybe the camera board is not working as well as it should. The logic is correct and functioning.
Hi,
do you print all other the bed with petg or on small area ? Can i have the pic of your mesh bed plz ?
thx
Hi,
i had a k2 standard, pla and petg were ultra good, i decide to buy a k2 plus, shame on me, what a mistake, petg on that printer is a pita, i need to change zhop and zoff in a specific profile for petg.
Creality mambo jumbo technical support want me to change the strain gauge AND the heat bed …
1/ it’s not my job to fix shitty printer …
2/ i have a job and i dont want doing the job of creality …
Creality want me to return the printer … How i am supposed to pack that monstre ?
Shame on creality !
Hello all. Thanks for all the responses. My machine is currently running my #1 product and I’ve come up with a Z-offset that is working perfectly. Due to it’s workload, I’m really unable to experiment and play at this time. Hopefully I WON’T be able to get back to it, which will mean it continues producing product.
She is my only large scale production machine and a single point of failure. So I have two other machines on their way as backups which will probably turn into primary.
Neither are Creality BTW. 