Hi everybody,
just received my K2 Plus last Friday and man, this is really a mixed bag…
One quick question: the PEI plate which came with the printer has a very strong texture and I couldn’t find any other plate from Creality, is there a recommendation for a smooth PEI plate? You cannot use the back side of the textrured plate, can you?
Thanks, Andreas.
What do you means by “a mixed bag”?
Not that I recommended It but have accidentally printed PETG successfully several times on the mag base of the build assembly without a problem.
I bought this plate from a 3rd party vendor which I used already for my Qidi printer as well.
It has PET side with a nice fiber look.
My experience with flat build plates is only that I need to add a ~0.06mm Z-offset to print on them successfully anything.
I also have the Creality original Epoxy print plate which has a nicer not so coarse texture and parts stick a bit less on it than on the original PEI and you can use both sides, they are the same!
It’s actually my default but does not work with all filaments, some would not stick, but PETG & PLA works fine so far.
Printing on the magnet? Get away with a couple of times but get a smooth print plate or a double sided print plate.
Yep have ordered a smooth plate from Wham Bam.
Hi BoBL,
English is not my native language, I’m just trying to use it… 
I’ve been tinkering with 3D printing since 2017, and have been using a Bambu X1C for the last two years, which worked almost flawlessly.
The K2 Plus… well…
I have had to take the extruder apart several times and I cannot remember ever having to do that with my X1C.
Andreas.
Which one?
I cannot find this print plate in the Crealuity store (maybe I’m blind), where can I get it?
I’m located in Germany btw.
Cheers, Andreas.
The 3rd party was the first one with golden textured PEI and carbon fiber PET.
The Epoxy was from Creality store on AliExpress, In January I ordered there some spares like nozzles, heater, extruder shell and the build plate when nothing was available on normal Creality site.
I have the printer since mid December and luckily had only one big problem with extruder shell/tube replacement but using 2nd Nozzle and some fresh tubes after ~800hours printing.
Thanks a bunch, I ordered the plate as well as some other parts there.
You can use the back of the plate. Use some clue so it wil release. Its not the best way to do it but it wil work. In the meantime you can buy a smooth plate.
I’m pretty new to 3D printing and the Creality Print software. I just ordered an epoxy resin smooth build plate for the K2+ on AliExpress (
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mN9TEbh )
If I select “epoxy resin plate” for the bed type in CP6 and probe the bed before printing, will it figure out the correct Z height for the first (and subsequent) layer(s), or do I still need to put in a manual Z offset to compensate for the smooth bed?
I still need to install your bed/filament macro, once I have enough time to figure out (read and understand) how.
I have this plate as well and like it very much.
It is not really flat but much less textured than the standard PEI plate.
You should print it with standard PEI settings, not with flat epoxy settings because this is for another really flat epoxy plate from K1!
I had same assumption originally but failed to print anything with the flat settings.
Anyhow, most PLA and PETG stick a bit less - or much less - on this print plate. It really need to be completely clean or you need to use 3Dlac spray (I would not use glue stick because you see it on this plate too much on the model).
You maybe cannot use it for large tall models but for example the models from my PETG comparison printed nicely!
Thanks for the tips! Wow—That 3Dlac is some pretty pricey stuff!
I did not feel so, I get it on Amazon for 9.80€ incl 20% sales tax here and my current one lasts already a year!
I need it only for 3-4 filaments, the others stick on clean build plate OK. But if you generate finger prints on the plate and do not clean it properly you may have roblems, especially with some PETG.
My Genuine Creality “smooth” epoxy resin build plate arrived today. Being cheap and impatient, I got some Aqua Net Extra Super Hold hairspray at the local supermarket.
I had some ~1 square centimeter (plate contact area) PLA parts to print, so I figured I’d just clean any manufacturing residue off the new build plate with alcohol and try to print on the bare plate; I definitely don’t need any kind of bed adhesive for PLA— It stuck to the bare “smooth” plate very well…I had to pop the printed parts off with the scraper that came in the toolkit, even after the bed cooled.
I did take your advise and just left the build plate as “Textured PEI Plate” in Creality Print. With “Calibration” always ticked, I don’t think it really matters, since I imagine the printer finds the correct Z height after probing the bed anyway.
That is what I also find. Don’t try to fix what is not broken 
Goo to hear! I mentioned that I normally do not need any glue as well, it’s just a handful filaments which won’t stick.
The Z-Offset is something which need to change mainly for PETG filament, this does not want to be pushed so much onto the bed an like PLA or ASA.
You definitely do not need to run Calibration all time, especially if you have a well defined filament profile.
The calibration does not address Z-Offset but the unevenness of the bed. Look on fluidd into tune menu and you will see how good your bed is.
I do the full calibration only for filament profile generation. Bed mesh is done automatically when printer is turned on on first print and then re-used in subsequent prints. I re-run it only if I change bed or bed temperatures for example to print ASA or other high temp filaments because the bed mesh changes depending on temperature.
Creality ask you mainly to turn on full calibration (including PA & flow rate) when using their generic filament profiles because they are not calibrated for your filament and this is then where at least flow rate and PA values will be set according to filaments needs. But I do that only once and take the numbers then into a filament profile not to rerun calibration anymore for this filament.
