Hi Mate
I have a 3v3 Se and I have had issues but nothing to like what you have and now mine is dialled in great great prints every time it’s a great entry level printer.
Would it help if I set you a print file already created with brims and supports?
Spud
Yes couldn’t hurt thanks
Unfortunately it won’t let me upload the G-Code file to you 
Can you describe the environment of the room in which you are printing, that is temperature and humidity?
I am also really new to 3D printing - 5 months in. I got the Creality HI, which is essentially a later generation Ender.
Here are my success factors:
When your silica gel changes color from orange to green, it’s time to recharge. 15 minutes in a 250 degree air fryer does well.
Print something simple to test. Test small, fail quick, make adjustments.
Continue letting us know how it’s going.
Hello @ 
Welcome to the Creality Forum…! 
This is something that often gets confusing. Silica gel is better at keeping filament dry than drying filament that is already wet.
If the filament is only slightly exposed to humidity, putting it in an airtight container with fresh/dry silica gel can help slowly pull some moisture out over time like you were saying but If your filament is wet then it will need heat to pull any moisture out. For example to dry PLA use 40–50°C / 104–122°F for 4–7 hours, depending on the brand and how wet it is.
Everything said here is correct, even using painters masking tape for better adhesion will help. My new secret sauce is to use ChatGPT to describe and resolve issues. It is very helpful and has a tremendous body of knowledge to pull from. It knows how to whip Cura into shape. I have tried some very intricate and tiny parts such as radio knobs and it is up to speed on what pro shops set their equipment to do.
Don’t give up, this is a hobby with a long learning curve that is influenced by what you are printing. I’ve learned that very small tweaks help you depart from a solid set of settings. Don’t change a lot of things at once, and don’t get too frustrated.
My best investments were a Micro Swiss hot end, one of the textured metal plates for the bed, a new Biqu motherboard, and a CRTouch on each of my CR10v3 printers. I also adapted the firmware for the motherboard and accessories, but stay away from that if you aren’t familiar with coding. Many problems went away with those, but they have their own considerations. Talk to Chat. Tell it what you’re printing and what is going wrong. You’ll be surprised at how useful it is.
A lot of great advice shared here already. One thing many beginners don’t realize is that 3D printing success comes from balancing multiple small factors together — filament condition, bed adhesion, temperature, slicer settings, leveling, and print speed all work together.
Moist filament is one of the biggest hidden issues, especially in humid environments. Proper drying with controlled heat and correct storage can dramatically improve print quality and reduce stringing, clogging, and failed first layers.
Another important tip is to make only one adjustment at a time while testing simple models. That helps identify what actually improves the print instead of creating more variables.
It can definitely feel frustrating in the beginning, but once the machine is dialed in, the results become much more consistent. Keep experimenting step by step and don’t hesitate to ask the community for help — everyone starts somewhere in 3D printing. 
Prestige safety nets
I completely understand the frustration. A lot of people think 3D printing is “plug and play,” but in reality it’s usually a process of tuning several small things together before everything finally clicks.
One thing that helped me was creating a simple troubleshooting routine instead of changing many settings at once. For example:
First layer issues → check bed leveling + nozzle distance
Stringing → dry filament + retraction tuning
Layer shifting → belt tension + print speed
Poor adhesion → clean bed surface + proper temperatures
Filament moisture is also much more important than most beginners realize. Even brand-new filament can sometimes arrive with moisture depending on storage and shipping conditions. Drying it properly often fixes random printing problems instantly.
Another thing that really helps is printing small calibration models instead of large projects while testing settings. Temperature towers, retraction tests, and first-layer tests can save a lot of time and filament.
Don’t give up yet. Most people hit this stage before they finally get reliable prints. Once your printer is dialed in, it becomes much more enjoyable.
Dr Geetha’s Homeopathy Clinic
I have enjoyed the good-and-bad arguments on here about the Ender3. I do a lot of 3D printing, in a club, on numerous different projects, and now have three (interestingly different ages with different beds). The original bed was indeed troublesome, the second was glass and ok if kept clean, but the latest flexible metal one is brilliant. Faultless printing time after time, and lift off when cold
I made my own filament store - a set of large plastic bins each holding 5 reels, each with a small reptile heater and a tray of silica beads in each. <24deg and 40% steady. No problems!
Appreciate all the suggestions from everyone. Am continuing to try but very frustrating. A kind member sent me a ready made file. First layer went down ok but then caught on it and ruined it
Filament can get wet in a matter of days. Many people turn their oven on a put the filament in there for a while. Google “how to dry filament in an oven” and you will see 1000s of videos on how to do this. Its a common problem.
All your photos are a symptom of poor bed adhesion and not the printer itself
You are on your way to 3d printing success. This should be the final hurdle and is not that much of a problem once you understand what is going on.
I moved over to MicroSwiss about a month ago and absolutely love it.
That’s a really good point. “Wet” is certainly a relative term.
My perspective is my basement is kept at about 45% RH. The inside of my CFS was running about 29%.
I added silica gel mass - I put gel bins behind, under and in front of the spools.
After I did this, about 3 days later I noticed the RH inside the CFS to be about 11%.
In my safe I use a goldenrod heater.
A mesa está limpa?
Use cola especifica, talvez ajude você com a impressão
Being an old retired gent, may i offer an inexpensive drying solution? I took a used filament box, and cut one side off. It sits level on the open side. I punched holes in the top side for air to escape. I set the printer bed at 40 deg, put the spool of filament on, cover it with the cardboard half box. let it run for 4 or 5 hours. Works a treat. PLUS Isopropyl alcohol, some you buy are 70%. some you can buy are 90%. I found the 70% I bought in the early days left a film on the plate - NOTHING would stick at all. Switched to 90% and it’s good now.
Still trying to understand your z-offset calibration. You have stated your z-offset as -0.9. Mine is regularly at -3.62. This has little meaning, as it is the distance between the nozzle and the print bed at working temperature that is critical and should be checked before printing.
SASSpud and I spent an hour last week via video call trying to sort it. Everything was set right and still failing. Think I’m at the point now where I’m going to get a bambu
