SPARKX I7 Bed Mesh

Sparkx i7
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I have two SPARKX I7s, one with a range of .7 and the other with a range of .8, with both bed meshes being relatively flat, slanted planes (one left to right, the other right to left). The funny thing is: I have never had an issue with bed adhesion or otherwise failed prints (apart from supports breaking a couple of times). However, a recent firmware update caused both printers to glitch at the same time and caused massive issues (you name it, it happened). I did not realize this at first (the issue has since been fixed with the latest update) and in the process of troubleshooting I was introduced to bed meshes and Klipper/Fluidd. In all honesty, I had no idea that bed meshes and the software even existed. I am still a novice, but quickly learning.

I have tried to correct the bed meshes to get to the .2 range others have listed, but nothing works. I have followed every method listed by multiple users both here and in other forums. I have tried shims, the paper method, and adjusting the bed screws repeatedly but nothing will get either machine lower than .7 and .8. And yes, each calibration test was performed with a bed soaked at 70C for a full 30 minutes. I have also checked the squareness of the gantry, frame, etc of both printers All good. Belts are tight and every screw on the machines seems properly set. I have worked with both laser engravers and mini CNC machines and learned greatly from those experiences regarding parts that aren’t set quite right (my TwoTrees TTC450 Pro was particularly finicky).

Now, as I said, I have never had any adhesion issues or non-support related failed prints prior to the glitch and I have not had any since. I think this is due to the fact that I have followed a set “ritual” since my very first Benchy. I am a baker by trade, and since 3D printing is kind of like baking I do for my printers what I do for my ovens and other kitchen equipment. I preheat the bed (as I preheat my ovens) at an appropriate temperature for a minimum of 15 minutes. I also keep the printers religiously clean and maintained overall, but particularly wiping down the print plates with IPA after each use and washing them with Dawn at least once a week. More, if I am doing heavy printing. I also try to avoid bending the plates to remove a print. I know they are supposed to be flexible, but it seems to me that regularly bending the plate to pop off prints will cause them to deform over time and lead to print issues.

I have lowered the speed settings for the first layer, as I have for the other general speed settings. I know these are high speed machines, but I don’t see the need to be in Turbo Mode all the time. I also fine tune all my support, strength, and various other settings to whatever filament I am using and also make further adjustments depending on the project. I am a firm believer in the “low and slow” approach to most things in life. At my age, that is pretty much as fast as I can go LOL.

And I always let the pre-print calibration run. I don’t mind the extra time it takes. I run a full self check calibration once a week. I also enabled the FADE function in Klipper. I did not notice any skewing on my prints but I figured: what the Hell? Whatever helps keep things looking good, right? I think many beginners run into issues because they don’t move beyond the default settings in whichever slicer they choose to use, thinking the settings are already optimized.

Anyway, since the glitch was fixed, I have printed over a dozen models on each machine. These have ranged from flat tags to multiple tall decor pieces and functional parts such as hinges and brackets. Several models and batches covered the entire bed and every one printed as perfectly as the SPARKX I7s can print.

So this is how I see it for myself: despite the .7 and .8 ranges of my machines (which some have told me means my printers are about to explode), both produce beautiful prints because Klipper does its job and because I take the time to perform my pre-print ritual and dial in slicer settings. Rather than stressing over a number that seems unattainable (at least for me) I am going to let my machines and their software do the work and enjoy this wonderful hobby of 3D printing.

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My Sparkx i7 arrived with a bed mesh of 0.9; the printer worked well for the first two weeks, but then issues with bed leveling began to arise. I don’t use my printers as a hobby or a toy, but for work: I print large objects with print times ranging from 6 to 18 hours. I can’t afford to cross my fingers and hope the printer finishes the job without supports breaking or parts detaching mid-process—problems I’ve already experienced. Adjusting the bed is actually easy; you just have to get the hang of it. I’ve encouraged several other users to do it, and they’ve successfully corrected their bed mesh. It’s a process that takes several hours and requires patience, but the payoff is huge.

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my bed mesh now have a range of : 0.29, I’m very meticulous about cleaning and generally lubricating my printer, but not the bed—I hardly ever clean it, maybe once or twice a week. You aren’t supposed to use isopropyl alcohol; you should only use warm water and dish soap. But like I said, when you manage to get a bed mesh like mine, you don’t need to clean the bed, you don’t need glue, you don’t need absolutely anything; the parts stay welded to the bed, just as they should.