So I have a K1 Max that I can not get the bed to level. Its oddly warped. The front outside edges curl up. The rear left side is curled down. Spacers do not help I have tried. Is this something I will have to get a new bed from Creality? Its a new printer. Only a few weeks old. I have included the last bed level mesh.
Any and all ideas welcome.
Looks like it is more then within the specified range, so it should be no problem at all.
Just print your stuff.
I have been. Problem is I am still seeing print issues. IF the print is taller I see shifts and separations. If it is larger like flat pieces for the walls of a PSU they come out warped matching the bed. The last two prints I had to heat up and clamp down between two tiles to get it flat. Also my first layers on larger prints are messed up. Parts of it perfect but the side where it curls up or down… the lines get nasty. Some times it looks like to close other times so far away that it barely sticks to the bed. I have tried to calibrate it but it all seems to come back to the way the bed is warped.
Just curious what is the “specified range”? I mean as far off as my bed is its almost 4 layers difference between the front and back.
No it is not the bed there are a few other factors like (in priority order):
clean your bed with hot dishsoapwater.
before start printing let the bed warm up the machine for twenty minutes(at 70 degrees Celsisus)
if you have a textured PEI bed lower your offset to -0.05 (in printersettings)
if you have a smooth plate use glue. (and lower your offset in steps of -0.01 until it prints well)
let it print in a windstil environment. (close door and lid)
btw the range is within 1mm and the autoleveling will compensate for that.
0.75 total variation, I’d be quite happy with that, the autolevel will cope with that. Pretty sure Optimus said a 2mm variation can be catered for.
2 mm is very “optimistic” 
Possibly and I would have liked to link you to the post that was made, can’t find it at the moment.
My V3SE bed is a little out at 1.2mm but prints absolutely fine.
yeah no problem some different heights in the bed.
I have had the same problem as tons have also, I bought my K1 Max at the beginning of Oct 2024 and have replace the hot bed plate x3 Thinking maybe I messed them up or they were just bad until I started reading about them on the forums, IF you get a HOT BED PLATE THAT IS (NOT) WARPED YOU ARE 1 IN A MILLION AND HIT THE JACKPOT LOL, I was about ready to take a HAMMER to my K1 Max until a few days ago and found this guy’s Video Fixing the Creality K1 Series bed warping with the Sub Bed Mod ((ALSO)) - Works with the K1 MAX, It has fixed a lot of the problems with the Filament NOT sticking and cold spots. Mine is Just about level and went from this::::::
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TO THIS::::::
Still working on it but has gotten so much better, I do hope this helps other’s and YES I’M ASLO USING THE BED LEVEING WHEELS AND SPRINGS, as it really helps to level everything out with the GLASS PLATE. (WORD OF WARRING) - EITHER WAY WITH THE K1 MAX USING THE STANDOFF SCREWS OR THE SPRINGS AND WHEELS, ONCE YOU PUT THE GLASS PLATE DOWN YOU WILL (NOT) BE ABLE TO TAKE OUT THE SCREWS OR TAIGHTEN THEM DOWN FROM THE TOP, ONCE THE GLASS IS GLUED DOWN, IT’S DOWN. ALSO TRYING TO DRILL THE GLASS WILL MOST LIKELY BREAK IT. 1 other TIP, DON’T use glue, I switched from glue to hair spray - (Suave 8 Max Hold) you can get it at any store or WALLY WORLD, and it’s cheap, I have also used Blue Painters Tape, It works but I’m liking the Hair Spray better, Here is EVERYTHING I USED::::
YES THIS FITS THE K1 MAX - Amazon.com: Creality Official Ender 3 Max Neo Glass Bed 3D Printer Platform, 320 x 310MM Tempered Glass Plate Build Surface for Ender-3 Max, CR-10 V2, CR-10 V3, CR-X, CR-X Pro, Good Adhesion Remove Easily : Industrial & Scientific
A variance of 0.8mm should be catered for in the autolevelling. Z-offset is key to getting the best first layer adhesion.
So your bed is uneven but uniform. My bed “curls” up in the front corners then down in the left rear. With my bed having the curl/warp the first few layers are all over the place on the bed. Z offset has NOTHING to do with that. Its the fact that the bed is not flat. As the print head moves over the bed the the printer has a VERY hard time comping for the odd curl. I have tested and found that the curls (the front corners) have a horrible first layer or two but the center of the bed is fine. If I print larger Items the layers are jacked. If I print a smaller one, I center the model and it prints fine.
The bed is warped and I will be replacing it. Not with Crealitys help since I got the run around. They didn’t even understand me enough to address the issue I reported.
Good Luck, Creality sent me a warped bed from China, and I bought 1 off Creality store site, BOTH were WARPED bad, the glass trick helped out a lot, Because the glass is glued on top of the metal hotbed, most of the warping is now gone. GOOD LUCK!! I sure hope you are able to fix yours soon.
I have noticed that if I calibrate my K1 max with a print that covers most of the build plate about 7+ times, I usually overcome my warped bed and poor first layers. Although I’ve noticed a drift in the calibration after printing several smaller objects for some reason … I wish I understood the formulas they use to calibrate and why it changes over time.
