What do you change in your slicer?

Hi all and each,
I guess this is like saying,“how long is a piece of string”, but …

I am aware there MANY different users that print MANY different items, both as hobby and professional. Skills and time in the field vary by the same amount

A thought often used is, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. But generally most software is broke to some degree, otherwise there wouldn’t be version 3.xxx and so on.

So, generally, if you would care to share what you change from what would otherwise be default in your slicer settings, and maybe why you do it.

Many thanks to all that care to share.
I am sure there are many that will benefit from your insights/knowledge.

Cheers.

I change the wall loops to 5 from 2, partly to make a stronger part but mostly because I use a lot of brass threaded inserts so it needs a little more material for a good bond. I also change from grid infill to gyroid, the nozzle doesn’t drag over itself in gyroid. I will also check the retraction distance is about 0.8-1mm for direct drive. Flowrate is another thing to check after doing the flowrate calibration.

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Hello Bonfireman,

Thank you for the reply and sharing your setup and why.

P.S
I looked up the Snapmaker A350T your avatar mentions … Wow … I want one of those :yum:

Cheers

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lovely printer, best prints I have ever made but it is slow compared to a V3KE for instance. I use it mainly for laser cutting/etching. I’ve not mastered the CNC router part yet in the 3 years of ownership. Don’t have to worry about swapping nozzles as the whole hot end is a cartidge that costs the same as most nozzles, just swap the whole thing out. Only upgrades I made were the Quick Swap kit, can swap between functions in seconds and a 10W laser. There is now a 40W laser and 1.6W IR laser, can’t quite justify the extra cost yet. Oh and it is a big bedslinger so needs plenty of space.

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I’ve only been 3D printing for a few months so I’m still learning.

I find that changing the infill to Gyroid and the retraction settings improves the final print quality. Depending on the size of the print, I sometimes change the speed settings as well. I can print the same thing with different settings and get very different results. For me, it’s all gaining experience

Hello 2E0PWD,

Thank you for sharing what you find helps get a better print.

Do you find a particular seam position (Random/Aligned/Back etc. that works best for what you print ?

Cheers.

Personally I prefer it aligned and towards the back. Random just leaves random blobs on the surface. Inner wall to outer wall can improve it visually but may make the part oversized.

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I use mostly the default settings in Creality Print, I make the following changes:

Wall Generator - Arachne
Wall loops - 3
Infill - 5%
Slow down for curled perimeters (10%/25%) - 50
Support Type - Tree(auto)
Support Style - Tree Slim
Threshold angle - 25
Top Z distance- 0.2
Bottom Z Distance - 0.2
Support/object xy distance - 0.6

Hello 3D4Everyone,
Thank you for sharing what changes you find works best for what you print.

Could you elaborate on why some of the settings ?
Such as Wall type being Arachne and
Slow down for curled perimeters (10%/25%) - 50

Many thanks,
Peter.

Hello there,

Does anyone have a particular type of Top Surface pattern or Bottom Surface pattern they prefer
or do you simply go with the default ?

Do you find one type better for presentation ? or maybe another reason ?

Cheers and thank you for replies.