Hello folks,
As I notice a number here have more than one printer and often different brands of printers.
So, may I ask, what do you have, if more than 1 and…
Why different brands.
What do you like about them.
What would you change.
Many thanks to all that reply.
Cheers.
E3v3 works good, wouldnt change anything,
Currently I still have the original Anet A8 that I built from a kit in 2016, learned a lot from it, but it’s ridiculously obsolete now. Still works, though. Then I have an Ultimaker 2, which printed really well on the rare occasions when it wasn’t broken. Pretty much a different printer now with all the work I had to do to it. Converted to 1.75mm filament, all new extruder drive mechanism, etc.
Then in 2017 I actually met Josef Prusa at Maker Faire, ended up buying a Mk 2 and eventually upgrading it, then buying a Mk 3. Also put together 20 kits for a local school. The Prusa printers have just been workhorses, few problems which were easily fixed. Would definitely buy from them again.
Just got a K2 Plus in January, running the daylights out of it and other than the PTFE fitting on the extruder failing, haven’t had any real problems with it. It just prints, and it’s around 4x faster than the Prusa. Time will tell.
Creality K1
Likes:
Small footprint for desks. (220x220x250mm build plate.)
Fast.
Enclosed makes it quieter.
Nice touch screen.
Option for camera. 
Needs Work:
Better lighting.
K1 Max
I ended up selling the K1 and ordered a new K1 Max with the bigger 300x300mm build plate. At that time the K1 Max had the old-style hot ends and not the unicorn nozzle so I made sure the nozzle and the upper part were tightened up against each other so the monster blob of death didn’t show up. The newer unicorn nozzle avoids this problem by being one piece. I did upgrade the extruder part which had a spring tensioner with a lock to keep the extruder lever from moving
Printed pretty well but during one of the calibration tests the build plate went all the way down for some reason and then came up crashing into the nozzle scraping the plate. That build plate isn’t supposed to go all the way down like that so the next time it tried to I just shut the machine off. Contacted Creality and they sent me some pressure sensors to fix it. Had to babysit the thing for awhile but it hasn’t done it since.
I also removed the LiDar sensor and turned off all the options for it as it has not really been useful. As long as it’s calibrated and set up right it prints great. I change slicer settings depending on the model but the machine does a great job.
Likes:
300x300 build plate.
Enclosed. Makes it quieter.
Fast.
Touch Screen.
Sturdy construction.
Camera.
Needs Work:
Lighting could be better… 
Lidar is there but not useful for me.
Ender-3 V3 ------------- Ender-3 V3 Plus
I also have the Ender-3 V3 and the Ender-3 V3 Plus. Same machines except for size. The Plus is 300x300x330 while the smaller one is 220x220x250. Both work very well but the filament feed system is not the best so I’ve been trying different fixes to put the roll on top which seems to work better. Still a work in progress though… I have to move the filament senors too.
More lighting would be good. I’ve seen you guys add LEDs and stuff which work very well but I haven’t gotten around to that yet.
That build plate zips back and forth pretty quick so watch fingers… 
Likes:
Very well packed.
Gantry is metal and sturdy. Easily hold filament roll.
No doors to break or fall off. 
Fast.
Touch Screen.
Camera option available.
Needs Work:
Filament feed system.
Snapmaker A350T was my first machine, 3 in 1, FDM/laser cutting/laser etching/CNC router. Possibly creates the best prints due to being all leadscrews and no belts/wheels. Added the quick-swap kit, can change from FDM to laser in 30 seconds rather than unscrewing and re-screwing 30 odd screws which is a bit of a chew. Upgraded the 1.6W laser to the 10W laser. Contemplating the IR laser for stainless steel etching. Perhaps get the rotary attachment too.
Ender 5 plus with many mods, upgraded cooling to PSU, silent motherboard (which will be further upgraded to a BigTreeTech). Magnetic PEI build plate instead of glass. Direct drive Microswiss NG printhead. WobbleX on the Z leadscrews to eliminate z-banding, sonic pad, LED lights, corner bracing. Might do linear rails, might do CoreXY who knows.
Ender 3V3SE, is it standard, no it isn’t, linear rails in both X and Y axis, gantry bracing, Microswiss Flowtech hotend, sonic pad, LED lighting. Nebula camera.
Ender 3V3KE, linear rails on the Y axis, Microswiss flowtech hotend, rooted running Guppy UI, gantry bracing, LED lights. Nebula camera.
Qidi Xplus3 and Qidi Q1Pro, no mods done to those, not needed, ok just one mod added a Creality Nebula Camera to the Xplus3, fantastic camera and the night vision works (no night vision on the Qidi camera for some reason)
Definitely recommend the Nebula camera.
All FDM machines are fed from filament driers because I live somewhere humid.
Anycubic M5s Pro…resin printers, I get about 50/50 success rate, it is messy and smelly, need to wear a decent gas mask/respirator for the fumes. Has to be kept warm to print properly. Cleaning and curing is a bit of a chore too, it doesn’t get used anywhere near as much.
Hello Bonfireman,
Thank you for the reply. That is an impressive array of printers and an impressive amount of mods.
Cheers.
Hello jimandyen,
Thank you for sharing. An impressive array of printers (All Creality too !).
Thank you for listing likes and dislikes.
Cheers.
Hello kpietriyk,
Thank you for your reply.
Interesting coices … Yes, Prusa are durable, I own a MK3 also.
Cheers.
I started out with an original Ender 3 which I greatly modified -
added a BTT e3V3 32 bit control board,
BLtouch,
BTT tft35v3 dual mode display.
Smart BTT filament detector.
Raspberry pi 3b running Octoprint.
Flexsteel magnetic bed.
Microswith All meteal extruder
My next was an Ender 3 V2 again I upgraded it -
added a BTT e3V3 32 bit control board,
BLtouch,
BTT tft35 E3 dual mode display.
Smart BTT filament detector.
Raspberry pi 3b running Octoprint.
Flexsteel magnetic bed.
Dual Z drives.
Creality sprite pro direct drive extruder.
My 3rd printer ia a creality Ender 3 Si pro With sonic pad.
My current printer is a K1C. The only mdification is to raise and hinge the lid.
added moonraker, fluidd and other goodies.
Bill
Hello Bill.b,
Thank you for your reply.
I can only say,“my goodness !”.
Definitely a Creality believer down under 
Cheers.
Howdy,
I started the thread and didn’t even say if I had a printer … oh
Ok I am a happy owner of an Ender 3 V3 SE and also own a Prusa i3 MK3.
The V3 SE is pretty much stock other than the Sonic pad and I think it is great.
The Prusa MK3 is straight stock and just goes and goes.
Apart from a few odd things such as Lithophanes or an occasional trinket for a friend, I generally create housings for electronics projects.
Would I buy either of the printers again ? no, not really.
I do like the V3 SE as it simply works and is relatively fast but,
If I buy another printer it will be a decent Qidi and therefore have to make it worth having it; not in the money sense of things, just learning to print serious gear with serious filaments and enjoying the ability to make all kinds of things.
Cheers.
ender 3 v3 ke (creality) Its fast and it just works
Hello big_smooth_games,
Thank you for your reply.
It is satisfying to have a printer like that !
Cheers.
Great little printer, love mine though it did take me a little while to realise that Orca does an autolevel on every print that ruined my z-offset. Commented it out in the g-code and now it sticks with my -0.21mm offset. I can’t use the latest Creality Print with it or any of my other Creality printers.
Well, guess what I bought ??
So my line up is …
Ender V3 SE …Good reliable printer,Added Sonic Pad … way faster than the Prusa Mk3.
Prusa Mk3 … Doesn’t get used (probably sell it)
Qidi Q1Pro … Well, awesome is all I can say, much faster than the V3SE, has a chamber etc.etc.
Certainly would buy another Qidi.
Cheers.
