This printer is the worst piece of junk I have ever bought. Most of my days are spent trying to get it to print. If I could get $500 for It would be gone. But since this piece of junk is still here I am going to try again.
Do they make an upgraded extruder, hot end? I have replaced everything, extruder, motor, I buy the unicorns 5 at a time. Fillament is dry and I have tried every setting 20 times. Do they just not print PETG? I have gotten it to print but I bet it has been 25 nothings in a row now.
I consistently print petg without issues..
Printing right now..
Maybe upload your print profile setting, bed type, bed mesh, anything else that can be used to compare..
Petg is the one i can just leave, walk away and it works…for me.. i have more clogs with hyper pla than i do with petg or abs, even cheap ender prints reliability
While not using the K2 (I have the V3 KE) I found that I had to do a bit of trial and error to get the temperatures just right. Also I have noticed a big difference between brands and even colors of filament. Once I got the settings set PETG works just fine. ABS on the other hand…
I print PETG with my K2 plus on a textured sheet using Windex. Just give the sheet a spray and wipe off with a paper towel. The film left behind works well.
I am printing PETG on both Textured PIE, as well as smooth CF & PEO-PET beds without issues (using offset macro for +Z0.005 offset for textured PIE, Z0 for smooth)
Some PETG examples I’ve recently printed. Spheres without any supports (green is petg black was tpu), 10" filter cartridge for GAC, RO di plungers, and a golf trolley fix.
I will offer you the $500 if you really want to get rid of it. I have more issues with Hyper PLA than I do with PETG, I went through the learning curve to make sure I don’t squish the filament first layer, adding a slight positive Z off set and keeping my bed temp at 80 and hot end at 250-255.
Also no problems here. I’ve printed mostly Hyper PLA both Creality and others. Printed a lot of ABS as I built a Voron Trident a while back. Have done PETG (Overture filament) also for the Voron but not massive amounts. In all cases it works great. I’m using one of those Epoxy plates I got of Amazon. Just clean it with IPA and everything seems to stick OK. I’ve mostly used the built in profiles but tweaked a few for temps/flow etc mostly for silk or other odd filaments.
On my machine SUNLU PETG printed very nicely and without issues. But I had a lot of issues with eSUN PETG. After lots of lifting and blobbing, I raised my z-hop by 0.1 mm and used some hairspray and a brim to fix most of my issues.
I bought my K2 at he end of November last year, and got it delivered at the end of January. Before the end of the 3rd month, I sold it for less than I paid for it, but I did recuperate most.
It was nothing but one issue after another. I could not get it to print anything other than PLA. I tried ASA, PETG, ABS, PETG-CF, and TPU. I was not successful in printing anything with those materials. Constant clogs, constant errors. And no parts readily available. “support” is a complete joke.
I ended up buying a BL H2D, and what a huge difference…night and day. I will never buy another Creality machine again.
Happy for the people who have had no or little issues, but I have seen a ton of complaints across many different reviews and the quality is just not there.
I had problems with printing PETG. I tried offset, temperature changes, etc. from forums and Reddit. I finally took out the nozzle and reapplied thermal paste. I can now reliably print PETG.
I’ve had PETG issues since the first day (printed the PLA sample perfectly, but this printer is for PETG solely.) Got two spools of Creality Hyper PETG and after many clogs, errors, faults… finally got through all of that. Figured would get better results from a higher-rated filament.
Recently got some eSun PETG. Spent a day running every available calibration from Calibration · SoftFever/OrcaSlicer Wiki · GitHub which resulted in a flawless Junction Deviation cal print. Single-wall spiral-vase, perfect definition, zero ringing or blobs, was so excited - maybe I had this licked? Queued up a real job the next morning, and the first layer failed, extruder clogged, wouldn’t cut, and filament is now jammed and won’t retract. This is a work printer - I don’t have time to tear it apart and rebuild it… so many wasted hours…
Matthew, I decided to look at the paste. Was pretty sure I’d already been there and done that (we use “high-end” boron nitride paste for another printer which has worked well, so thought all were using it now.) To my surprise, this printer was not “converted” yet, and the OEM paste was dried out and in poor shape. So, disassembled and rebuilt the entire hot-end using BN paste. For future readers, note that the K2+ brass heat block assembly unscrews with a reverse-thread. Found the nozzle temp PID was allowing the nozzle to reach setpoint + 15degC - it overshoots - set it to 255c (max for this filament) and it peaks at 270c. Given that this rebuild is due to a clogged nozzle, I’m gonna wager a bet as to this overshoot is why it failed at the start of the previous print.
PETG is the least of my issues with this printer. I have had decent luck printing it, well when the printer actually works and does not pretend it is a pasta maker.
I was unable to print a relatively simple part using Polymaker Blue PETG. I tried many things others have recommended. Usually the extruder jammed on the second or third layer. After the third or fourth failure I realized that the jams were happening on both sides of the print head extruder gears. This can only be true if the CFS is pushing the filament with excessive force. To confirm this, I moved the filament to the external holder and tried printing the part with the same settings. It printed with no issues. I feel this confirms the CFS is a major source of my problems. Is there a way to modify the behavior of the CFS? I noticed the Polymaker PETG had a rougher finish than the PLA filament which rarely fails. Any thoughts on what I should try to resolve my problems?
I signed up just to post this. I was having issues printing Creality Hyper PETG on my K2 Plus since I bought it. At the same time my H2D was doing great with it. After comparing default profiles I found that the only setting you need to change is “First layer - Line width”. Set it to 0.42 (the default is 0.5) and PETG will become your favorite filament.
I upgraded the hotend with microswiss, problem solved. I could get it to print perfectly before. I printed a large lamp that had several 30 hour prints that worked perfectly. Then using the same settings, I couldnt get it to print for 2 days. 20 prints that would stick in the hotend during the first layer. If it got past the first layer it worked. I would think it should work more often using creality filament and their settings.
