Is there a way to calibrate only the Z axis on the K2 Plus? The only way I can see to do it is by doing a factory reset.
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There is a way in Fluidd. I’ve never needed it, so I haven’t tested, but the settings are there.
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Thanks… I will look into that. I get a rough 1st layer surface and it transfers up to the 2nd, 3rd, etc. If I manually adjust during the 1st layer it seems to do okay. I only increase by .005 or .01 but it seems to help. I just want to calibrate the z axis from time to time without factory reset.
I am waiting for the K3 Klitek so I can have another set of new problems…. LOL
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K2 Plus Belt Auto Tensioning Module Calibration Process
@LarryK2_PLUS I’ve been dealing with the exact same issue on my K2 Plus! I print a lot of ASA lately and noticed extremely rough first layers and severe elephant’s foot. Raising the Z-offset manually fixed it for me as well.
After looking deeper into it, I think I found the root cause:
When the printer performs the bed mesh / auto-Z offset routine, it heats the bed to target temperature, but keeps the nozzle at around 140 °C (to prevent filament oozing). However, when printing materials like ASA, the nozzle ramps up to ~260 °C.
This temperature delta (140 °C to 260 °C) causes thermal expansion in the nozzle and heatbreak. The metal expands, bringing the nozzle tip slightly lower than what the strain gauge / probe measured at 140 °C—hence squeezing the first layer way too close to the bed.
As a workaround, you can tweak your Start G-code so the bed leveling runs after the nozzle reaches its full printing temperature, or keep applying that small positive Z-offset adjustment for high-temp filaments.
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Can I ask what the difference is when setting your offset in the printer settings in the slicer or in fluidd? Is one better? I mean if it’s saved in the printer profile it should apply that offset every time and as long as your bed mesh doesn’t change it should be consistent? Or am I missing something?
Om the printer, go to the settings page ( icon is three horizontal slides) select “axis and Temp” on the “Z” slide in the center is a house icon. Click it and Z will home.
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I also noticed it right after I started printing ASA, but then it started affecting even PLA prints. I actually got tired of manually setting it each print so I submitted a work ticket to Creality. They sent me a replacement strain gauge (but did not include telling me the mandatory factory reset after). That has very much improved my first layer. I am looking at getting a carbon fiber heatbed because Creality said “there is always a deviation with an aluminum bed.” I thought “why not fix that Creality.” The carbon fiber bed is $220 aftermarket; I am sure it would not add that much cost to Creality switch over.
There is no difference whether you make printer settings in Fluidd or Print-7. Creality software is made from several modules. Fluidd is the one that holds the printer settings. When you put your settings in Print-7, it just transfers them to Fluidd for execution and storage.
Thank you for sharing your insights! I’ll also try replacing my strain gauge to see if it makes a difference. Regarding the carbon fiber bed, I doubt it will solve the issue with first-layer quality when printing ASA. The main problem seems to be that the bed mesh measurement is always executed at a nozzle temperature of 140 °C. When you subsequently print ASA at 260 °C, thermal expansion causes the nozzle to lengthen, which means the Z-offset has to be adjusted manually. Either Creality finally updates the bed measuring routine so it runs at the actual printing temperature, or you’ll need to adjust the Z-offset directly per filament in your start G-code.
That explains a lot. Thank you for the information.