Update: My issue is finally resolved, all I needed was to replace the X rails, remove the springs from the print head and tighten the belts by 1 tooth on both sides (the belts should be 136CM, mine were 136.5CM). All that was a combination of the print head not sliding smoothly along the X-axis AND belts slightly longer than they should.
After receiving the replacement parts, rails bearings, X axis block and a singular belt, the belt was way too short, think it must be for the Z axis as it was labeled for a K1 max but that didnt really matter as i would need to replace both anyway.
The x axis rails were night and day better, but the x axis print block still bound up when fully inserting the bearing, just not as bad.
on digging a bit deeper whilst i had it all apart, i could confirm that the issues were all to do with the top bearing seat, the bottom was a Propper circular interference fit, but the one for the top rail was ovalised in the plain of the two railsā¦ This is obviously supposed to be what the springs are for, to take up the slack in the oval that is there for allowing of some tolerance between the rails from printer to printer.
However even on the new block that i received, there were issues preventing the bearing from being free to move in this space.
The upper bearing on my new unit was rocking around the center rather than being able to slide along the oval and as well as that, the the reason why it would bind up when it was fully inserted as i found also previously, was due to seams from the molding process.
If you look down the bore of the upper bearing seat in the x-axis block, you will be able to see some seams that stick up proud of the bore.
I took some wet and dry, wrapped it around the old rail and spent a bit of time removing the mold seams bit by bit and testing along the way as i did not want to remove more than necessary.
Once i had gotten most of it flattened out and it was almost as free as the Y axis, i went to reassemble itā¦ this is where i came across another issueā¦ when you insert the two bearing end stop screws, especially in a new block, it expands the plastic which then also touches and put extra pressure on the bearing, in my case resulting in binding the bearing back up slightly and causing extra friction.
To get around this, i inserted one screw at a time and went in from the opposite side with the rail and wet and dry to flush the surface back down whilst the screw was insertedā¦ then repeating on the other side.
I then reassembled and it all remained free with everything back together!
I did not address the rocking of the bearing in the middle as i did not know if this was intentional or notā¦ i do not believe that it is, but i figured that with the bearing freeāed up and running smooth, that it would eventually seat its self where it needed to be, rather than me hacking away at it even more.
I think this molding issue along with the quality issue of the X-rails that others are also seeing is a bit of a QC issue that should not have made it through, but i do appreciate getting all the replacement parts within a few days.
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