Fluidd logs don’t show the flowrate at all in the console/test run that I ran. Is there another place it might be shown or some param keeping it hidden from logs? I’d rather not just assume 100% is the value every time, because that has been it for at least a dozen different rolls now.
Kris, you see it only in the tool area of fluidd within the print.
The flow rate is set as part of an internal macro analyzing the camera pictures with some AI.
The normal print starts after that and the manual move area disappears!
Another point is to set right print temperature before the test because the PA & flow rate values change with print temperature and print speed!
I usually set print temperature to ~80% of whats proposed by vendor.
Example: My Elegoo Rapid PETG has 230-260°C temperature range, I multiply the higher value by 4 and add the lower and then divide the number by 5 rounding to next 5°: 260*5+230 = 1270 / 5 = 254 = 255°c in the profile. I used this also for the hardened steel nozzle on Qidi and it worked so far for all filaments. I printed only two temperature towers on K2 so far for very special filaments.
My flow rates for the different filaments are 90% over extruding, 8% under extruding and only 2% right on spot.
p.s.: It is important not to set the Enable pressure advance flag in the filament profile used by the test because it would overwrite the measured PA when print starts!
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@frankjoke, since you posted this guide, I’ve added these steps into my regular calibration routine -and I’ve been recommending it to other users who are just getting started.
It’s quick, to the point, and surprisingly effective. Most recently, I used this method to dial in Overture PETG (basic black) and I was honestly surprised by how different the results were compared to the generic, recommended settings. IMO, Overture is one of the easiest brands of PETG to print, so it was most surprising seeing the difference in quality.
Appreciate you putting this together - definitely a go-to resource in my setup flow now!
@Iron3Dad
Good to hear! I have also some Overture filament, just not PETG.
Overture is actually Polymaker (same producer, same filaments) and I use onlöy the gold PETG from them. Otherwise I mainly use Elegoo RAPID PETG (cost me 30€ incl 20% sales tax for 2 rolls) and also some extrudr matte PETG which unluckily has only a view colors but is best looking PETG aside some Formfutura galaxy types as well.
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Woah, I’ve been on the hunt for a solid matte PETG - I just checked out Extrudr’s lineup, and I’m liking what I’m seeing! I live right down the road from the Houston Polymaker facility, but had no idea about their relation to Overture!
Have you tried Extrudr’s matte blue yet? I’ve just about given up on finding a matte PETG that doesn’t end up semi-gloss once printed. Would love to know how it performs. Same for their RED! Shipping to the US may cost me though 
@Iron3Dad , I use metallic and red (which is very good) from extrudr (they are located here in Austria/Europe where I live), I seldom print anything in blue.
The best filament they have is actually Greentec Pro, which is a sort of PLA but heat resistent up to 100°, better than PETG and it has the best matte look for all filaments hiding layer lines best. The only drawback is its price and that it’s even more stiff and brittle than PLA so you cannot use it for thin or very tall parts. I use this for all parts which need to look (and feel) good and not glossy.
I also buy most ASA from them because it’s great as well.
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So it’s better to use generic (pla/petg…) over Hyper filament settings as the base? even though it’s slower by default?
Yes, always use generic settings as start for any filament which is not listed in the System presets .
Hyper filament is very special and allows/requires other parameters (like it can be printed faster) than other PLA for example. You can use the Hyper profiles only for this specific filament.
On left side below you see a part of the filament profiles I have created for filaments I have used on K2 so far:
You should also create a User preset for it which then holds you settings for this filament, the most important are: Nozzle temps, bed temp for the print plate(s) you use, maximum flow rate flow rate, pressure advanced and cooling settings.
You see in there that I created also my special for Hyper PLA because I did not like some cooling settings because I print all PLA&PETG with slightly opened cover and door.
Be aware that you need to define that for different nozzle diameters separately!
Thanks for your answer!
@Yogev_Bokobza , here is an export of my eSun & Elegoo filament profiles for K2+:
Creality K2 Plus 0.4 nozzle.creality_printer.3mf (6,9 KB)
The forum does not allow to upload config files so I zipped it and renamed the .zip to .3mf. So you just open the 3mf file with your zip extractor or rename it back to zip and then unzip and the unzipped file (Creality K2 Plus 0.4 nozzle.creality_printer) can be imported as Config to CP6.
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Thank you very much!
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I saw some filaments settings are inherit Creality Hyper stuff, is that in purpose?
Yes & No, if you create a user filament profile you always do it by saving a system profile with a new name. Therefore every user profile is based on a system profile.
For high speed filaments I use the Hyper filaments as a base and for others the generic ones to make my modifications and save it then under new name.
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So in your case you need to type:
http://192.168.1.70:4408/
because your IP-address is 192.168.1.70 !
Hi Frank, thank you so much for the info. I’m a newbie and I was struggling with filament calibration. I used this info and made a guide, I have posted it on Reddit. Can you tell me what you think and if you like I can post it here too.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Creality_k2/comments/1mc8zbd/easy_filament_calibration/
This does not work consistently as the AI for PA and FR are not at all consistent in the numbers it output to Fluidd also it gives a lot of “warning: get percent failed, percent: None” so the numbers just remain the same.
I’m curious as to why you use a generic profile. What if the filament makers recommendations for nozzle temp, bed temp, etc. are different than the generic profile?
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Most of the creality profiles have max volumetric speeds higher than the generic ones, because they know they work. .the generic profiles are the baseline for you to calibrate and tune against..
That said, if you use a manufacturer that gives you enough values to know where to start with, if they match the CR ones there is nothing stopping you using them as the starting point..
Makes sense. Thanks for the response!