First of all, please excuse me because my English is not good and I have to use google translate.
I am new and am using Ender 3V2 Neo.
I successfully printed a few small samples before running into problems with the plastic not extruding. I searched online and tried cleaning the print head.
From here some bigger problems came.
I’m not sure if I did it the wrong way or not, but it’s not often that I can pull out the filament smoothly without clogging the plastic tube.
The way I did it: Heat the nozzle to 200 degrees > Hold down the plastic wire latch on the extruder part > Use hand force to pull the plastic wire out. Is it because the plastic fiber was melted when it was pulled out, and when it went through the pipe, it cooled down, causing it to harden here? I have tried this many times and every time the plastic wire gets stuck in the middle of the pipe. Please let me know which step I did wrong.
Because the plastic duct was clogged, I had to replace it. But he removed the 2 black bolts (with blue fixing rings) quite violently, resulting in breaking the power cable connection of the injector cooling fan (I’m ordering a welding machine to re-weld this wire). ), as for the part that fixes the two ends of the plastic pipe, I knew how to reinstall it but I broke it and don’t know where to order it. And through researching on YouTube, I learned that I must attach the plastic pipe and nozzle very closely (with absolutely no gaps) if I don’t want the nozzle to clog again.
So are there any tips for how I can reattach the plastic pipes most accurately? And if possible, can you give me a link to buy the black part (with blue ring) used to fix the plastic pipe? (I live in Japan and often use amazon).
When removing filament from the extruder its always best to use a slightly lower temperature than the printing temperature to prevent the filament being too gooey when pulled out of the nozzle. You should find a temperature of around 160-180 will allow you to remove the filament without too much issues with clogging.
In terms of the broken collar that holds the tubes in place you will want to search for the following item online “Pneumatic Connectors Collet Clips for Hotend Extruder”. They are very easy to fit and just press in to place. Hope that helps.
It is not advisable to print the collars as due to the way FDM printing is done there is always a risk that the part will shear and snap along the layer lines. Always best to use properly calibrated and sized collars to ensure a secure fit for the tubes with no risk of them snapping inside the extruder.
Thanks for reading my rather long post. I found it and ordered it on amazon. Goods will arrive within 1 week.
I will repair the blower and try printing as soon as the goods arrive. I will report back later.
Thank you for the very useful advice.
Hi @Nikoli.
Before Collet Clips arrived, I fixed it with paper clips and tried printing a large model for about 26 hours (for work). But because the printer is located at the company, due to concerns about fire and explosion, I am forced to use the pause function. However, it appears horizontal lines as shown (In Photo)
. I tried two ways: Pause > turn off the power and Pause > reduce the temperature, turn off the cooling fan and leave the power on.
Is this an insurmountable problem and can you give me some advice for printing things that take a long time?
Thanks a lot!
You will likely find that whats happening is while the printer is paused it will be turning off the heaters to the bed which in turn will cause the PLA filament/model to shrink slightly and sometimes partially detach from the bed as it cools off. As a result when you then resume the print the model may have distorted slightly causing print imperfections.
It could also be a case where the gantry is slightly loose and is descending the Z axis when paused. The printer will only keep the stepper motors locked for a short period of time before it will usually turn them off to prevent heat build up etc. If the gantry rollers are slightly loose you might find that the gantry is lowering itself slightly when the motors are off.
Thank you for your information. It seems like i won’t be able to print a large model without keeping the print bed, nozzle hot, and motor running throughout the printing process, even when using the pause function. I will try to redesign it into many small models so that it can be completed in 1 working day.
Also worth double checking the eccentric nuts on the sides of the gantry to make sure they are not too tight or too loose. You should be able to turn the pulley wheels with your fingers but still feel slight resistance.
