Hello,
Should I be using the smooth plate to build while printing ABS or should I use the textured plate that is for PETG?
The reason I am asking here…
- Things worked well for a while at 85C bed temp and 260C hot end temp.
- I started to print more complicated pieces with the ABS and noticed some movement in the piece while printing at 85C bed temp.
- So, I raised the bed temp to 100C.
I am noticing a curvature in the ABS around the base and at times, even with the 100C bed temp, the entire print(s) fail because of slippage.
The entire piece printing comes unbound from the 100C degree build plate (smooth).
Seth
P.S. Any ideas are welcomed. I am thinking of trying to get the textured plate to attempt it. My first piece was easy-peasey. Now, I get nothing but failed prints due to moving of parts. This or that…I slowed the printing speed down to 150 from 200mm/sec. This helped a bit but the ABS is not sticking well enough to finish more intricate parts (which are not that complicated). Pieces like flanges with a solid base are some of these parts.
Hello For_Ward,
Why not go back to the settings that were working for you and use some glue ?
Or remove the plate and give it a spray with hair spray.
Cheers.
1 Like
Chamber temperature needs to be quite warm for ABS, doors/lid closed, i have mine at 45/50°C to prevent warping. I do use gluestick just to make sure it sticks.
1 Like
I should but those settings are not around any longer. I fooled myself into thinking I saved but reverted back to the old settings with a save… Argh…
Also, I can try glue. We shall see…
Seth
I stopped using the top. The drag chain gets in the way and prevents the movement of specific moves on different parts. I will try the top again too. Hopefully, I do not need more odd moves around corners of the inside of the chamber.
I will try to get the chamber hot enough. This could very well be my fault, i.e. as usual.
Seth
Drag chain drag seems quite common many enclosed coreXY printers. I get it a little on my Qidi machines, but yes a fully enclosed heated printer for ABS for best results.
1 Like
Testing with the top on and the chamber temp at 60C to 80C degrees.
I even got the charcoal filter exercising!
Seth
P.S. Be right back with an impromptu on building this flange in ABS with 35% infill lines…
Ut oh…what part of this machine heats the chamber?
Seth
If it doesn’t have a separate heater, like mine do, then heating the bed for an amount of time to heat the chamber.
Gotcha…and A-Okay, I was wondering. At first, the chamber would heat and report temp. Now, nothing.
I think because the fan is removing internal heat, I am missing the point of the heated chamber. Blah.
I thought this machine had a heater that would heat the internal chamber. Okay…no issue.
Seth
P.S. The temperature is recorded in the chamber but not via an internal heater outside of the build plate.
A quick google and I am not sure if it does have a chamber heater but it looks like it could be added. Even without that I think I have seen some drag chain mods on Printables that might help with the lid.
1 Like
I tried the printed modifications for raising the lid. It kept the animals at bay for all of two minutes…
Jump, crash, bang is all that happens over here.
And right about the heated chamber. It heats but not excessively with the fan on relieving the heated chamber.
It has a temperature gauge. That is nice… I am not going to add it in. I think the lid was all that was needed.
My print has made it now without flinging. It is just printing like it is supposed to print.
Seth
And if necessary, I can even stop the fan at excessive speeds for the exhaust. This may help too.
Seth
P.S. Also, something I found on specific parts is that when I attempt the smaller parts, slower works better (mostly). When I have a large part with large faces, the extreme speeds are handy.
Exhaust fan and part cooling fan lower to about 30/40% no aux fan, if you have one.
1 Like
Right. I did. The exhaust fan is on it and I use it at times. I stopped the aux fan for ABS. The part fan I lowered to 30 to 40% depending on the speed and accuracy.
I think we might be getting there in tuning your printer for ABS…next is ASA, similar thing but a cooler bed.
1 Like
I think I have some odd stuff from Dupont still from a long time ago. I have never printed ASA. I may have some. I will need to check. I saved up for a good printer like this one. My older printer was a bit slow and older. It was a cartesian and not a CoreXY. These have very well behaved mannerisms with movement and they do it quickly.
Here is the ABS:
Hello @Bonfireman ,
I found a lid raiser that solves the problem on Printables. They would most likely also have one for the K1C.
Cheers.
1 Like
Can this thing maybe print Dupont Nylex? The company that was in cahoots with Dupont before the uproar, built these CoexNylex Dupont builds and I have one only.
So, I have been waiting until I can find a printer that can build around it. Hopefully, this one!
Not tried that one as my drag chain only clips on the lip below the top window.
1 Like
