Also…I have some odd 0.24 probably fragments and not smoothness…
See here:
Flowrate a little high perhaps, lower it 5-10%?
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I will try it. I am going to turn the exhaust fan lower than I had it previously too. I also noticed that the 0.4mm nozzles do better at finer printing.
I had a 1.0mm a while back and that thing could push out some stuff…and quickly.
Update
I will try 0.20mm for testing until I can get it down pat. I had it at 0.24mm.
I run 0.2mm for some PETG parts but generally stay with 0.4 for everything else. Did print some 0.2 TPU parts today for an experiment, worked well.
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The 0.20mm is the line width I was describing and not the nozzle tip.
I actually broke down and saw that Creality or some brand, I am pretty sure Creality, had a four pack of different sized heater cores. So, when I broke down, I got 'em.
I have yet to use them as initial testing comes first before switching everything out and altering what does not work 100% perfect just yet. If that makes sense, okay. If not, okay.
Basically, I want to be able to use the printer fully before altering it at all like with extra or different sized heater cores. I think the heater core and nozzle came as one shebang.
0.2mm nozzle at 0.06mm layer thickness with the same heater as a 0.4mm nozzle is perfectly possible. I could probably go for massive nozzles with the same heater, but I have no need, I only print upto 0.2 layer thickness for quick prints, normally 0.4 nozzle at 0.12 layers. I have spare heater cores but they are spares for when blob of death occurs. I change nozzles with a decent torque tool rather than change the whole hotend (rather a hard job on my Qidi machines, their major downside)
Isn’t that the sort of thing Bambi does?
I remember one printer. I “had” a thought. CHANGE the heater core and nozzles over and over until I find the most flow for something. I forget why now but changing the heater core and nozzles are tempting but cause other frustrations.
Frustrations like broken cores in the heating block and so on. After metal gets heated and cooled so many times, it fractures (seen or unseen) in time. Expansion and compression are the metal issues I have come across with exchanging out parts.
What used to fit, needs to be altered. What fits now, did not fit a year ago. Ideas like that created more knowledge on a good printer that is self-contained.
I still think the hot ends are one piece for the K1C. I am not 100% sure even though I have some. I just researched the idea. I cannot tell if they are indeed one piece or of separate pieces with threads.
Bambi? I do not know. Shebang, like. Oh. Yea.
Update
The new print almost is 100% on point. There is some ripple in the 0.4mm nozzle with the 0.20mm line height and width at where my fillet meets the top of the first maximum height.
The top, the very top, height printed pretty nicely. Hmm. All along I could have used what I learned instead of calling it not smart to allow the drag chain to mess with my nice lid. I could have just put the lid on like I learned for printing with ABS.
Also…I got this seam.
How would I get rid of the seam in the prints or is that a CAD thing having nothing to do with the Creality GUI options?
K1 machines went to Unicorn nozzles, once you get the hotend that accepts those you can just use the same nozzles. Bit like my flowtech nozzles, just buy new nozzles. I have one printer that is difficult to change MK8 nozzles but it is possible. Rather not change out expensive parts if I can help it.
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Seam has nothing to do with CAD, you can hide seams by putting it on a corner or random, there are some new tricks that I haven’t explored yet, but it is just the start and finish of that printed coil.
Right. Unicorn nozzles are what they call them for whatever reason. Too bad. I have this older style printer, MK10 stuff, and that is the printer I was discussing. It was a pain to exchange out parts because of the hardened thermoplastics on heater blocks of aluminum. The steel would actually break off around the threads in the aluminum.
I guess Creality like any other business has upper echelon types of tools they utilize. So, with something like the smaller printers, calling things like Candy Goo Do It or something works at times.
Some people and the personnel at Creality probably feel this at times. Bog.
It is like when people work on the same idea too long, bog happens. It is a stagnant, floating piece of land in different parts of the country here in the US but it can also mean hammering the same thing down over and over until completion happens a trillion times.
Heating nozzles and unscrewing/rescrewing them is not a problem, the unicorn nozzles got rid of clogs because of heat creep, I would upgrade to that if I had the choice. As long as things are properly tightened printing should be almost problem free.
Right and A-Okay. I thought they were once piece.
Oh. I just got what you mean. My printer, my fault totally, had a teflon tube to heater block from about an inch out of the heater block. I removed it and tried to compensate.
I found Microswiss. They have good stuff. I also found another brand that I used. Some Orange or something. Man, I wonder now. Let me research them again…
How about try the American made Microswiss Flowtech that they make for the K1C, not as good as the Unicorn, but I use them here in the UK, not because I want to MAGA but because they are good hotends/nozzles.
I tried them out too. They have some high end equipment.
I do not think they make a tier of printers but they are for promoting different components towards specific printer manufacturers.
They do not have the Creality K1C Unicorn nozzles for whatever reason.
Slice are expensive. I like Microswiss, I have them on my all my Ender machines but not my Qidi machines. I only get leaks and things when things get loose, I check everything once a week just to be sure. Are you trying to say that extruding is getting stale as an idea? Have you tried resin printers? Some people totally get those rather than FDM. FlowTech™ Hotend for Creality K1 / K1 Max / K1C / K1 SE — Microswiss
no…I am not saying printing is a thing of the past. Some companies and people around have these sign printing 3D Printers that I saw recently. They are like CNC machines for wood but for 3D Printing signs and large signs.
I am familiar with Microswiss. I am done for now. I need a break from breaking. Ha. Good on ya’. See you another time. I see zzzzzz’s in my near future.
Hi @Bonfireman ,
What is the one for your Qidi Q1Pro ?
I have one for my V3SE, but obviously they are different sizes.
Cheers.