K2 plus new user

Greetings,
Just finished upacking, might be a day or 2 before I find help to lift it, chunky boi.

Any slicer favorites for the K2?? I like PrusaSlicer, but started using Orcaslicer because I bought a bambu machine.

Hoping Orcaslicer has a K2 plus preset, if not, I guess I can use this crealislicer mess to get start and end code

I dl’d the 4 Jan firmware, have never used a creality product before, how is firmware updated? I’ve done prusa’s, sovol’s, and bambu’s.

Any group tips for sucess? I see some bed issues are more common than mere chance would suggest,… tips to avoid that most welcome.

looking forward to big fast prints

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firmware is semi auto updated. only problem i got what is irritated me is i need to do a z-offset for petg prints. i think i can fix this with higher nozzle temp for bedmesh but dont got that option. and it would be nice to not have the cfs on top, why make a glass plate you cant remove.

Welcome @ K2!

The K2 Combo was also for me the first Creality printer and I have been printing before also with Prusa, switched last year to Orca (which I still use for Bambu and Qidi printer’s) but use now on K2 Creality Print V6.latest. The reason is that it handles and integrates the CFS as well as calibration when sending to the printer. It also displays printer data in progress including camera.

Martin mentioned his PETG problem which I cannot share in general, I have out of 100’s of filaments only two very special PETG which require small additional Z-offset (~0.015 mm).
The most important thing is to dial in filament parameters like print and bed temperature, flow rate and PA and also cooling as well as most important max flow rate.
The genera settings of Creality are very bad I have to say and I practically use them only on first prints for new filaments to run first test but after first calibration I use my own filament profile then.
@Martin_Prent , if you set bed temp to 75° in filament for first layer and switch on calibration in CP6 when sending/printing file to printer you will have the bed mesh also at 75°!

In general, I am very happy with the printer, I had only one failed print in last month and this was completely my mistake because I 4got to enable brim and support! I posted here how my print settings are most of the time.

Its not the bed. The nozzle expanding much more at 250c then when the bedmesh is done with 140c. I think that is done because the nozzle wil ooze the last fillaments out and that can really make the bedmesh bad. i already own a 3d printer so i know that, let me have at least the option to do it with some warning for new users to 3d printing. Now i need to wait to do a z-offset just before the printer is printing the purge line. I dont know it can be fixed in the firmware for everyone. Its not that when i do not a offset all the prints wil fail (only tiny prints fail because the perg sticks to the nozzle) its just not that perfect then with the z-offset. Layer line get pusht out every 5/10 lines and the nozzle really gets dirty that causes defects in the walls. And it wont release on its own when cooled down. The first purge line is engraved in the print bed that happend before i let the bed heat at least 10 minutes and do the z-offset. Now i print 10 files with petg before i do a new bedmesh. when i want to baby sit a printer i can rip of al mods of my ender 3 1s pro.

Yes, understand Martin! Luckily I do not have so big differences and normal PETG works for me also without adjustment, just bed level before (first PETG) print.