Hi everyone, 
I’m one of the winners of the “Community Pioneers event” for the K2 Pro Combo. :win
I haven’t started my “big” project yet (a 2 m printed RC sailplane with foaming filaments), because the first month went into something else I really enjoy: getting to know the machine and tuning it.
So here’s what I’ve been doing so far and how the printer feels in real life, what I like, and what I think could be improved. 
One of the first things I printed and tweaked was a front redirect “poop chute” for the CFS purge.
I posted it on Creality Cloud, and the V2 version seems to be getting some nice feedback so far:
It’s a simple 3-piece symmetric add-on that redirects purge to the front and keeps the mess under control. Nothing fancy, but it makes cleanup a lot easier and keeps the ouside of the machine a bit more civilized.
Then I fell into the rabbit hole of bed flatness / leveling. 
Starting point:
My first measurements showed about 0.9 mm peak-to-peak variation 
across the build surface. That’s enough to feel it in first layers.
What I did:
I started with the basics, aka I adjusted the mechanical leveling knobs as carefully as I could and it ended up about 0.3mm peak-to peak which is already good but I chose to improve it again
Then I wrote a small MATLAB app that takes the mesh data and tells me where to put strips of aluminum tape between the build plate and the heated bed to compensate locally.
On my screenshots, the colored heatmap is the “before”, and the white map is the “after theorically”.
Where I am now:
I’m down to about 0.09 mm peak-to-peak variation, which is a huge improvement for first-layer consistency 
So mechanically, the platform can be brought very close to “flat”, and the K2 Pro reacts well when you put in the effort to dial it in.
First, the general feeling:
The machine feels robust, good-looking, and capable.
I haven’t had a single actual issue with the CFS or the printer so far as it just does what it’s supposed to do.
I’ve owned several printers from Creality and different brands. For more than a year my favorite was the K1C: not flashy, but a real little tank.
Now the needle is clearly moving toward the K2 Pro. It’s not perfect, but it has some very strong points.
After using it daily for about a month and digging into what’s inside, there are a few design choices I really appreciate:
The CoreXY motion system and stiff frame give it a very stable feeling, even when it’s moving fast. Infill and gyroid patterns stay clean, which matters a lot for lightweight parts where you can’t hide defects under mass. That’s one of the issue I had with my ender 3V3 and my Creality Hi. They’re great but bed slingers are not forgiving!
The heated bed and closed chamber behave nicely and stay stable. That gives me confidence for when I start pushing into more demanding materials than the usual PLA like ASA and ABS.
The direct-drive dual-gear extruder and quick nozzle changes are really comfortable. For now I mostly run a standard 0.4 mm setup, but I know I can switch to different diameters easily when I move to special filaments (vase mode with 0.8 nozzle).
The built-in input shapingl is already doing a good job: surface quality is decent at reasonable speeds (300-400mm/s) without me having to battle ringing all the time. For a “high-speed capable” printer, that’s a very good starting point.
The CFS integration feels solid. I’m not yet abusing it with crazy multicolor prints, but even in simple use it’s reassuring to see automatic filament handling working reliably.
And I like the ecosystem side: Creality Print, , remote monitoring and the camera all tie together fairly well. It’s practical to push models, watch prints, and share things like the poop chute with other users.
Creality Cloud is really great for that but I fear that Creality is no longer moderating print settings though 
Overall, it feels like a platform with a lot of headroom. The fundamentals (mechanics, motion, extrusion) are strong enough that it’s worth investing time into tuning and building serious projects on it.
Now for the parts that could use some love.
It would have been nice if that unboxing was a bit less of a fight.
Small crease in the anti-shatter film on the glass
The protective anti-shatter film on my door glass has a small wrinkle.
It’s purely cosmetic and doesn’t affect use at all, but visually you do notice it when you look closely.
Behavior when stopping a print as automatic homing can be dangerous
Right now, when you hit “Stop”, the printer immediately do a partial home.
That can be a problem if you stopped the print because of a big blob on the nozzle: during homing, that blob can drag across the print and wipe everything off the bed (and even damage it)
Personally, I’d much rather see something like:
I might try to tweak this myself, but I think a safer default in the firmware would help a lot of people.
So,
After a month of printing, tuning and poking at the machine, I’m really happy with the K2 Pro Combo so far.
It already feels robust and reliable, and with a few mechanical and firmware refinements it has the potential to become an excellent platform for more advanced stuff – like the lightweight foaming-filament sailplane I originally proposed.
Next step for me: Your Project, Our K2 Pro Pioneer - #44 by Alex2Lab
finally start that printed RC glider project, and see how far I can push the K2 Pro with LW-PLA, LW-ASA and HT-LW-PLA in parts that actually go into the sky.
Thanks for reading. If anyone is interested in the bed mapping, the aluminum-tape trick, or the poop chute model, I’m happy to share more details.
Zaciekawił mnie sposób z poziomowaniem stołu za pomocą taśmy aluminiowej. Czy możesz przybliżyć szczegóły?
Hello !
in fact, it’s quite easy.
At first, I only played with the knob trying to get a level bed
And I ended up with this :
until I knew I could not get a better bed)
Then I exported the values of the leveling via Klipper (IP of the printer followed by :4408)
To get these values :
20:46:30 $ BED_MESH_OUTPUT
20:46:30 // Mesh Leveling Probed Z positions: // -0.241000 -0.236000 -0.180000 -0.165000 -0.151000 -0.162000 -0.181000 -0.213000 -0.239000 // -0.152000 -0.141000 -0.109000 -0.103000 -0.075000 -0.094000 -0.126000 -0.168000 -0.190000 // -0.068000 -0.099000 -0.075000 -0.069000 -0.076000 -0.095000 -0.115000 -0.148000 -0.142000 // -0.084000 -0.109000 -0.087000 -0.068000 -0.070000 -0.067000 -0.091000 -0.104000 -0.109000 // -0.132000 -0.109000 -0.084000 -0.065000 -0.030000 -0.058000 -0.084000 -0.092000 -0.110000 // -0.171000 -0.134000 -0.105000 -0.086000 -0.083000 -0.094000 -0.112000 -0.129000 -0.139000 // -0.186000 -0.160000 -0.123000 -0.114000 -0.118000 -0.126000 -0.134000 -0.148000 -0.167000 // -0.231000 -0.208000 -0.193000 -0.169000 -0.168000 -0.176000 -0.176000 -0.212000 -0.219000 // -0.295000 -0.264000 -0.243000 -0.226000 -0.218000 -0.219000 -0.251000 -0.280000 -0.290000 20:46:30 Mesh X,Y: 25,25
The MATLAB code then generated some pictures to print in A3 format :
First layer
(One layer = 0.06 mm of thickness which is the thickness of my aluminum tape)
Then it was only cutting the tape and placing it carefully
And if you’re interested, I can share the code but you would need MATLAB to make it work
Dziękuję za opisanie tematu wyrównania stołu. Chętnie spróbuję podziałać w MATLAB.
I’m not currently at home but I will share it this weekend then 
