Besorge dir ein neues Hotend, wenn die Nozzle jetzt so aussieht wird es beim nächsten Wechsel garantiert nicht besser.
Du hast uns aber noch nicht gesagt ob du es heiß oder kalt versucht hast. Bedenke auch das es nicht reicht auf 200° Grad für PLA aufzuheizen wenn du zuvor PETG mit 230° Grad gedruckt hast.
Any consolation, just went to replace my KE nozzle and it sheared in the heatblock. Microswiss Flowtech on order. Could clock it in on a 4 jaw chuck and drill it out but it would destroy too many things.
That stinks, good news is they are only like $20. I ordered one for myself recently and it arrived in 3 days.
In addition I ordered a micro-swiss heatsink as an upgrade over the cast/extrude formed factory part. This was also only about $20 shipped.
Take the breakage as an opportunity to make it better.
As the old saying goes ‘Breakdowns lead to Breakthrough’s!’
yes a bit annoying but it means I can upgrade another printer with my KE nozzles.
I did heat it up to 240 and I only used PLA. The problem was that the nozzle was so tightly screwed on that it would not turn. Once the initial turn was done it moved like how it’s supposed to be. I think maybe they screwed extra so it doesn’t break on shipping? Because I live in a semi remote place.
Sorry for late response, the response was not sending.
How do you remove it like that?
Oh that whole entire hot end was a loss. I tried grabbing the hot end with pliers and using a 6mm socket but the head just snapped off.
As for the hot end to the heatsink, the two small bolts also stripped so I just cut the bolts and hand threaded the remaining screws out of the heatsink. The hot end was a total loss.
Here is the new setup. I am glad I ordered the Micro-Swiss heatsink as it has some nicer features than the original. One it is machined from a billet as opposed to extrude formed. The thread bosses for both the hot end and the fan are more robust, the locking grub screw for the hot end is facing the front, not the rear so you do not have to remove the entire heatsink to service the hot end. For $20 it was a smart move.
Speaking of which, WTH is wrong with Crealities engineering team and the use of excessively short screws throughout the entire machine? The fan screws only extend past the fan housing by 1mm. One of the screws wasn’t even grabbing any meat, it was just spinning. As you might notice from the pictures I had to trim down the screw bosses on the fan so the screws could actually thread into the heatsink. Sad Engineering choice no doubt to save a fraction of a cent per screw.
Also I did use anti-seize compound on the threads of the nozzle to prevent seizing in the future as nozzle removal is (I am learning) a normal procedure in the process of 3D printing. Good Luck.
In a future installment of Sasha Cat Prints I am working on an Emergency Stop Button that will call a E-Stop macro procedure from within the Klipper firmware. I already have the gcode written, just need to purchase the button, wire it to an empty pin, modify the printer firmware and it should work… Maybe 
I got a new nozzle (took 3 weeks) and I screwed it on but I don’t know if it’s tight enough. Can anyone say?
this is what I use to torque my nozzles
Slice Engineering Torque Wrench
Just turn until it clicks while holding the heat block with pliers.
Make sure to bring heater block to 240c.