gotcha.
still learning this stuff
clearly some brands are better than others huh?
I’ve had more success with those plates on my 4 machines than any other. I have Creality plates too but they don’t seem as “grippy” YMMV.
So quick question what are using to slice/ make the gcode, what is your initial layer height and intial layer speed? Is your printer auto leveling before every print or just homing.
I’ve used both Creality Print and Cura to slice the same projects.
but even the sample boat that comes ready to print from Creality wont even print now. I did the first one with initial set up and was fine, but after that nope.
My initial layer speed is set at 50 and the height is at 0.20
I’ve auto leveled it before each one and even tried w/o auto leveling it. still get the same results
Once i get mine leveled i only do the calibration when i need to personal preference. But i had this same issue turning your speed down to 20 or 25 on the first layer is probably got to save you some headache. Even though it takes longer itll help you not have to print it again. At this speed do a wide brim and adjust your offest take a picture incase you have to revert back. Hope this helps
I HAVE NEVER BEEN ABLE TO PRINT ON THE ENDER 3 PRO WITHOUT USING A RAFT.
And I have never used a raft or a brim, should print fine once you get your Z offset right and that takes a bit of practice. Most days I don’t need glue stick but on some days I do, guessing the weather/humidity.
I can’t even get the bed leveled enough.
spent the last two days trying to level it decently and it seems like i screw up one side when touching the other and vise versa.
I have the initial layer speed set at 50 mm, you think that 25 is better? and should that just be initial ? not the whole project that slow?
i dont even know what that is
My weather is fairly dry…and the filament was brand new and just opened at the time, so it shouldn’t of been 'wet"
One thing I haven’t done yet is trying the paper trick with the z offset. going to try that today as i’m out of options
Your right when you adjust one side it does effect the other but yes intial speed not the whole project
I’ve tried one side, the other, doing both at once…using objects that are the same size, yet it still comes back all screwed up. ugh
and ok. i’ll go down to 25 on the initial and try that too
Ahh ok. still learning all these things
I had the same issues. What works to me most times with PLA:
- lower the Z in 0.05 mm
- Initial bed temp 70 deg
- Bed temp 60 deg
- Initial hot temp end 220 deg
5 hot temp end 210 deg
You may need some other settins depending on the printing material.
Kobi
I already spent days working the bed leveling and z offset. Thats how i finally got it to print with the raft perfectly.
Not sure how much lower I can go with the z offset.
I’ll try with bed temp changes, where is the setting to change the initial vs regular? I didn’t know you can set multiple temps
As far as I remember you can change temperatures in the Material tab.
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Bed temp of 70 for PLA is rather high, anything above 60 and we are in glass transition temperature, the plastic stays plastic rather than solid. Personally I would lower it to about 55, I print at 45.
Interesting…Ok. I’ll try that too
People complain about curling corners, that is usually down to too much heat or dodgy cooling. Some areas on my SE seem hotter than others, if I get curling it will be there. Need to get me a temperature gun.