@SUPERMAN31170 additional comments:
I pressed the levelling function of my printer and the problem happened again… it didn’t move around the left side at all and collided 
Have you played with the Axis’ offset settings?
I don’t know what firmware it was shipped with, but there should be a section to set the offsets for each axis. Looks like Z and Y are set properly, but X may be way off.
I can’t think of anything else other than the initial manual setting of all 3 axis’ when powered down with the exception of corrupt firmware.
Before you try reflashing firmware, turn off, manually home it again. Turn it on and find the “reset all default settings”. Click that option, go into configuration, then click save settings/configuration. Different firmwares will have slightly different wording, but it will be close to that.
Before you do anything:
When you find the “offset” settings for axis’, please post a pic of screen so I can see the readings please.
I bet the x axis limit switch is stuck, making the printer think it’s at the left limit, regardless of where it’s at. Take a close look at that limit switch. With the printer off gently activate it by hand and listen for it to click.
These are the only options that the machine gives me. I can’t modify the home parameters on the screen.
How can I set the X origin? In a slicer software like Cura?
@Denrayr , the bed switch works perfectly but the X switch doesn’t. It’s for sure a problem with the x axis. The problem is that X switch is in the printer head (or extruder) and when I press levelling it doesn’t go to the left side of the x axis. Unless I do what @SUPERMAN31170 suggests (manually moving the extruder to the far left and make it touch the switch) the printer doesn’t do it by its own…
Because I can’t upload anything, I did it on youtube so that I can share the link! In the video I’m showing how I manually move the extruder and the bed to their switches
, turn the machine on, auto home, and then go back to the default parameters and finally levelling as usual, and then is when the problem appears. No cuts while filming so it’s a 12 minutes long video so that you can appreciate everything.
Notes: I filmed it in portrait format and not in landscape sorry for that 
Thanks!
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Okay… I need you to do 3 more tests/pics please
1- Go into “Control”, from there go into “Home Offsets” and post a picture of screen when printer is in what it thinks is 0.00 X axis position. I know the print head will be way off. I need to see where the printer thinks it is.
While powered down:
2- On the board side, disconnect the X axis connector. Manually home again. Do NOT auto home when you start up. See if it will lay down the primer line in correct area now.
3- Open your slicer software and take pictures of every setting and post please. I want to eliminate anything input by accident there.
Do you mean “Prepare” and go to “Move”? I cant find “Home Offsets” in my “Control” section . Is that correct?
Let me know if I’m following your steps correctly
Im coming back with the 2 Step
No, you’re board/screen must be running a different firmware. I have that screen as well, but it’s for manual movement by you through the screen. It’s odd they would have removed the options I have. My printer is older than yours.
On the picture you posted, what position are all 3axis’ in? Are they in home position according to where it believes home is? Or random place?
Are those readings already there when you enter that screen? Or did you move them there?
If you can take a picture of printer showing me where all 3 axis’ are and a second pic of that movement screen when you enter into it without changing anything, it would be helpful.
I’m not sure about he 2 Step… here some questions:
when you mentioned the X axis connector , do you mean this one
or this?
Then turning the machine on which the connector disabled?
Because I disconnect the first one and power up the printer and the extruder went down and made a strong push to the hot bed and almost broke it 
Regarding your 3 Step: which setting are you interest in? I took a screenshot of the GCode from Cura and the slicer softw of Creality:
I’m trying my best :S I know a little of 3d Printing and this is my very fisrt one
On the board side of connectors. Not on the print head. I meant to say X axis limit switch connector.
If you unplugged the X axis motor, why would it drive the Z axis down???
Okay, I found diagrams matching your machine. Unfortunately you only have a Z axis limit switch connector on the board. Bummer! Looks like it runs through the ribbon cable on print head assembly.
I can’t tell in diagram if the limit switch is part of the head assembly or not. The only way to test the switch properly is with an ohm meter. When activated it should zero the meter. When not activated (or when the switch is not pressed) it will read full open if operating properly.
I don’t see anything in your slicer or Gcode that would travel the X axis as far + as it is.
When you manually zero everything like we started and fire up printer, what are the initial readings on that movement screen you took picture of earlier???
Don’t attempt to move anything. Just at manual position and checking the readings on that screen. I can’t find any information of a firmware using that particular screen to show location of axis’. Just a manual movement screen by user.
On the picture you posted, what position are all 3axis’ in?
I think it is in the home position according to where it believes home is. It always moves the print head there everytime I press auto home. The picture I posted , where you can see the values os the axis are also the same . If you turn the machine on, and press “Move” the printer first make an auto home and then you have to press again to “Move” and then you can see the parameters :
move X 134.2
move Y 125.0
move Z 10.0
extruder 0.0
The X axis never moves to the left when auto homing
You can see it better in this video
I realize that.
I’m trying to see what the readings are in the actual home position when you turn printer off and manually move them yourself. Stop hitting the auto home function. Something else is wrong that needs to be corrected. If you keep beating the head into the end travel you’re going to do more damage.
If after reading this you’re still confused at what I’m asking, tell me before doing something. I don’t want you to hurt anything further.
I can definitely hear that x axis switch clicking which usually means they are good, but the next step would be to disassemble the print head to inspect the wiring at the switch. If it looks good I’d check the switch with an ohm meter like previously suggested. After that I’d be digging into the wiring sheet to test the switch pins in the ribbon cable at the control board. If that tests good, I’d make the call that something is wrong with the control board.
To summarize, I Believe the problem is with the controller detecting the state of the x limit switch. These components should all be tested/inspected in this order.
- Limit switch.
- Limit switch wiring in print head.
- Ribbon cable between print head and control board.
If all that is good, then it’s most likely a faulty control board.
I’m so sorry but I can’t find any menu where I can check what are the initials parameters…
Maybe the Gcodes of the slicers have nothing to do with the internal code of the printer…
I’m quite desperate and I feel bad because you’re all trying to help me with this and I feel useless
I’m going to stop a bit because I’m burning out . I’ll take a break and keep going later on following your tips again
Thanks 
Just because a switch clicks doesn’t mean it’s good. This person is having enough issues as it is.
The only proper way to test is with an ohm meter.
I’m still trying to get a reading from all 3 axis’ from him while they’re in home position at zero. All 3 manually at ZERO POSITIONS. But every video/pic he posts is with the X axis beating against the opposite side.
OP, if you’re reading this the X zero position is all the way to the left until it’s on the switch. That’s where I need to see the readings on your screen when you turn printer on. Please don’t hit the homing button again.
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As I said earlier, I don’t see any problems in slicer or Gcode you showed.
I’m asking for the picture you already posted once. But I don’t know where the 3 axis’ were.
Turn printer off.
Please manually by hande move all 3 axis’ to zero.
That means X to left, Y to rear and Z as close to bed as you can using a sheet of paper between print head tip and bed surface.
Turn printer on.
Do not, please do not hit any homing or movement buttons.
Just go back to the screen you posted a pic of prior under “Prepare”, “Move”. But don’t hit a button after. Just take a picture of the readings on screen and a picture of the printer so I can see where all 3 axis’ are sitting.
After watching the last video I noticed you’re hitting the store settings button. If you do that when the printer is at what it thinks is zero and it isn’t, it will always default to that until you change it. This is why I want to see the readings under (prepare/move) while all 3 axis’ are in proper position.
You may not have an ohm meter to check X limit switch. I understand that. We can still look at the settings I’m asking for pics of to get a bit closer to narrow it down.
If we can square that away, we can check limit switch circuit through the screen manually. That way we can tell if it’s an issue in that area.
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your ribbon cable seems to be rubbing on the gantry, this could be your problem of the X not homing correctly, as I said earlier I get this on max Z. Solution? manipulate the cable out the way, not a great solution but if it misses the gantry it might home correctly. I put it down as a bit of a design flaw.
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@SUPERMAN31170 is awesome for taking this much time to help @aquestion29 with his issue. Interested to hear how this turns out for the sake of gaining knowledge on these unique problems.
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For @aquestion29, unless you have started a print job, your slicer software has nothing to do with the problem. If you’re machine can’t Auto-Home correctly and/or can’t trigger the X-axis limit switch and the Y-axis limit switch properly, then your problem can only be a hardware, firmware, or user control setting. Slicer settings only get used when you initiate a print file.
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GOOD LUCK! and I honestly mean it, they may put together an attractive product at a low price point but you pay for it with service and warranty or lack there of. 3…3 different printers all had something break and they haven’t done a single thing to repair any of them. They make you jump through hoops after hoop like you see above and gaslight you until either you get frustrated and quit contacting them or they stall until the warranty is up. One was over a $10 stepper motor and that’s at my cost. I’m fighting with them now over a resin printer that’s 4 MONTHS OLD!!! They say they can’t replace it, Amazon won’t let them… another company won’t let them honor their warranty…and it’s not due to physical damage or anything like that either. After literally 25+emails back and forth, not they want me to go buy $75 worth of THEIR PRODUCTS and take a video of it breaking and spilling the resin and tearing up the film. It’s a joke!!! I’ll never buy from them again and will actively campaign against anyone else buying one either! They’re about to end up with a lawsuit!!!
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Hi @SUPERMAN31170 , I’m back
I’ve followed your steps and there’s one problem:
Even though I don’t want to auto home and just want to know the “Move” parameters of the axis I manually moved to zero when the printer was switched off, It makes the auto home anyways!! That happens every time I press the button “Move” once I first turn the machine on. Then I can look up the parameters and It doesn’t make any auto home anymore…
It’s so weird… there’s no way to know what are the values of the zero axis except this piece of info:
Move X ---- 134.2
Move Y — 125.0
Move Z — 10.0
Extruder — 0.0
Please, check this video I filmed following what you said to me to do:
Hope you can understand what Im saying.
And also, I won’t get tired of thanking you for all your help.